Home brew SYE question

I was wondering, what would the harm be in tapping the output shaft of my '92 242 and bolting the stock slip yoke to it, essentially making it a fixed yoke? Then getting slip shaft driveshaft mated to it with or without a double cardan?

TIA

. sorry I can't offer any commentary ,but .yes, I have been thinking about doing the same thing,-would be interesting to see if this could be done-
BILLXJ

Check here . It tells about this subject. I'm gonna do it.

Unfortunately youre not addressing the real problem!There was another thread earlier today saying that if his angles were perfect he wouldn't have any vibes.Thats the farthest from the truth,its not just about angles.Most of the issue is about un-supported weight(length in particular),the CV joint makes this even worse because it weighs even more!

But, wouldn't pushing the slip yoke all the way onto the output shaft support it better? It would certainly eliminate any slop in the splines you get when the yoke is pulled far out of the t-case when a rig is lifted.

This homebrew setup would make for a just slightly longer driveline than stock, and incorporate a CV, slip shaft driveline. Much much better than stock.

Maybe I am misunderstanding what you mean by "unsupported weight".

Jared

The Xj has about 6" of output shaft hanging out from the nearest bearing(un-supported).Also the factory "slip yoke" is just that,its machined on the "loose" tolerance side.Most bolt-on yokes have a "tight" fit.

well... I suppose I could always weld it instead of bolt it. That would take care of the loose tolerance issue. Then if the TC ever went down I could just change it out with another one and maybe do it right the second time, by then maybe I'll be able to afford it. Mine isn't a DD as it only drives to the trails and for long distances it gets trailered. As many driveline parts as I see breaking on most folks' rigs, the TC isn't one of 'em that I see going down so much.

Ahhh, 4.5 inches on the factory setup and no vibs to speak of...

Anyway, what about cutting the Tcase output shaft and then drilling/tapping a hole ala hackNtap. Then, cut the stock slip yoke down so it just engages the remaining splines, drill a hole between the ears of the yoke (countersunk to avoid touching the Ujoint if needed) and taking the stock driveshaft to get a double cardan and a slip joint welded on?
Benefits
a) decreasing the length, thus the susceptibility to shear, of the stock shaft like the hackNtap
b)not adding adding much more weight to the Tcase side of the compared to a hackNtap, and much less relative to some other alternatives (I.E. double cardan slip yoke)
c) not needing a new seal as the old slip yoke would still be inside the tailcone.
d)saving a ton of $$$, as you are reusing stock parts. The only cost would be the DS costs.

Tell me what im missing