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old_man
October 15th, 2017, 13:17
I have a D44 in the rear. I pulled the old drums and wheels and went to slide the rotor on the axle. I am running Eldorado 1/2" thick Rotors, while the hub was a bit tight and I ended up sanding it out a touch for clearance, rotor would not sit flush with the axle flange.

Upon further inspection, I found that the wheel studs had a longer knurled section than the axle flange was deep and it was protruding and hanging on the rotor. I can countersink the rotor, but I was thinking about replacing the studs anyway. Anybody run into this before? Got a number or vehicle for a 1/2-20 stud with only about 3/8" of knurl? I have spent a ton of time online trying to find a manufacturer's chart that lists various studs and their dimensions but have had no luck.

I guess I will just go to the parts store and browse through the bins.

Tim_MN
October 15th, 2017, 16:34
Buy whatever studs that fit, chuck them up in a lathe and remove the excess knurl. A bench grinder could do the same job in a pinch, but would be kind of a hassle.

RCP Phx
October 15th, 2017, 16:44
Depending on where you got the axle, it should be a .618" knurl which means a Dorman 610-260 is what your looking for!
Add to that they are longer which you should need for the rotor thickness.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32679-610-260.aspx

TRCM
October 15th, 2017, 17:39
Buy whatever studs that fit, chuck them up in a lathe and remove the excess knurl. A bench grinder could do the same job in a pinch, but would be kind of a hassle.

Be much easier to simply drill out the rotor to the required diameter to barely clear the knurl.

But you may need slightly longer studs even then....to account for the rotor thickness if you are using aluminum wheels. Steel wheels may be ok, but you'd have to check to see how much stud engagement you get with the rotor on.

You want at least the stud thickness (1/2"), preferably 5/8"-3/4" depending on the style lugnuts being used.



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cal
October 15th, 2017, 18:51
There's no reason NOT to just countersink the rotor. They are hubcentric and once the wheel is bolted up the rotor won't move against the studs.

ehall
October 15th, 2017, 21:28
Dorman has a pretty deep catalog of wheel studs

old_man
October 15th, 2017, 22:52
Got it handled. I reamed the holes a bit and then counter sunk them a bit.

cruiser54
October 17th, 2017, 06:39
Got it handled. I reamed the holes a bit and then counter sunk them a bit.

Tom, what booster/master combo are you using?