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Ram assist questions

blistovmhz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, BC
98xj, 5.3L, WJ knuckles, 1 ton steering, driving 35's.
Only reason I'm doing a ram is because I keep blowing up sector shaft bearings and seals. I picked up all the metal to build a brace but then everyone recommended just doing hydro assist as it should solve my original problem, plus give me more steering power, for barely more investment.
I don't like kits. I prefer building everything myself. I know what I COULD do to guarantee success here (with the ram assist), but I also like to know where the limits are and how little I can get away with.

Picked up a 1.5" bore, 8" stroke ram, fittings and hose. Tapped a stock XJ box (no idea if it's any good, but figure it'll do for a test). I've also got a durango box on the Jeep now, but it's of course in need of a new sector shaft bearing, and I've got lots of XJ boxes to mess up. The tap went okay and it's ready to install later today, but I'm wondering about fluid volume.
Most guys say you need to add about 10% more fluid to the system with a ram, but 1. That seems like a number pulled directly out of someones ass, as it doesn't take into account the ram bore, box bore, hose lengths, pump pressure/volume, tire size... and 2. Every time I hear that number, it's explained that it's because the ram requires some fluid, which is correct, but that fluid will be stored in one side of the ram or the other when you fill and bleed the system.
I understand that adding a cooler is a good idea regardless, and I'll probably do that once I know my system works, but the reservoir is where I'm stuck.

Most guys say the second reservoir should be mounted above the stock pump/reservoir, but if you mount the secondary above the primary, it'll gravity feed to the primary, so the primary should always end up filled right to the top (not good for when you need to take a look at your fluid). Where should the reservoir be located? I figure it should be fine if it was mounted roughly level with the primary.
Second, 10% isn't much and it seems to me that a big filter canister should provide that much volume. Can pick up a hydraulic/oil filter assembly and filter for $30. They're a top input, bottom feed style filter so I figure it should work, assuming it's not too restrictive. Was thinking a 3/8 or 1/2" NPT input/output should be sufficient, to go along with my 1/4" NPT high pressure lines. Does this sound about right?

The system in my head goes like this:
* Pump high pressure > steering box. Steering box HP (tapped) > ram left and right. Steering box LP > oil filter/canister. Filter > LP input on stock reservoir.
Should this work?
Also, anyone know with high confidence, what the LP side of the steering system pressure is ? I've heard it should always be well below 100psi. The filter I'm looking at is rated to 150psi @100% duty.

(Yes, I'll be adding stops to the enormous 8" stroke ram. Just got it instead of a 6" because it was $40 cheaper and future proofs me in the event I pick up an axle with more steering).
 
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sounds like you need this...
http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/The-Ultimate-XJ-Steering-Brace_p_8.html

but assist would help too. I never ran a filter or extra reservoir. I ran my stock pump with a cooler and synthetic ATF. It worked great and I did drive on the road often. It was like the best steering stabilizer money can buy when on the road and it made steering very easy and took loads of stress off the box and frame when offroad.
I would suggest the 6" ram with the dana 30 though.
 
sounds like you need this...
http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/The-Ultimate-XJ-Steering-Brace_p_8.html

but assist would help too. I never ran a filter or extra reservoir. I ran my stock pump with a cooler and synthetic ATF. It worked great and I did drive on the road often. It was like the best steering stabilizer money can buy when on the road and it made steering very easy and took loads of stress off the box and frame when offroad.
I would suggest the 6" ram with the dana 30 though.

Yea, as I said, I WAS going to just fab up a brace, but absolutely everyone said the ram would do the job just as well, so I figured I'd just do the ram assist (cause I'm sure one day I'll need it). Also, I didn't really like the design of Boostwerks brace for my application because I'd have to drop the sway bar mounts, and that'd cut into my approach angle, as well as put my sway bar arm angle way too high (WJ bar). The brace I'd designed (and bought all the materials for) would've retained the stock sway bar location, and also doubled as a mount for the anti-rock (when I get around to it).

So you're running no reservoir or filter. What size tires are you running? How hard do you wheel? Any idea how hot your fluid's getting? Any problems with cavitation/starvation?
I can just throw the ram together as I have it now, without a reservoir, as it's no big deal to add it later, but I'll probably throw in a filter at the very least, since I'm already going back to the store to swap out the hoses I picked up (accidentally got JIC fittings instead of NPT).

Oh, that was my other question. WTF is the name of the hydraulic fittings that you can install on the trail without a crimper? I've asked around locally and everyone looks at me like I'm a crazy person. I know they exist as everyone on the forums recommends them (cause trail repairs), but no one actually says what they're called.

As for the 8" ram, it fits nicely on my axle, was $40-$50 cheaper than the identical 6" stroke version, and I can just throw 2" of DOM on it for a stop. I'd rather have too much and limit it, than not enough. With the Durango box and non-offset TRE's, my steering was limited substantially. I finally threw in some offset TRE's the other day, which gave me the full swing of the Durango box, but that's still limited compared to an XJ box. As I'm tapping an XJ box (because the Durango box's larger bore may cause issues with the 1.5" bore ram), I'll have a little more swing than I have now, and right now I'm at 5.9". I figure 6" is going to be VERY close to my limit, but I'll take all the steering radius I can get, given I've stretched my wheel base.
 
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(Yes, I'll be adding stops to the enormous 8" stroke ram. Just got it instead of a 6" because it was $40 cheaper and future proofs me in the event I pick up an axle with more steering).
8" isnt enormous. its a pretty common size, i just measured mine yesterday for assist, right at 8".

insert "thats what she said" joke anywhere you want....

Also, anyone know with high confidence, what the LP side of the steering system pressure is ? I've heard it should always be well below 100psi. The filter I'm looking at is rated to 150psi @100% duty.

id also like to know this one.
 
I ran 36x13.50 and 37x12.50 tires aired down to 8psi in the rocks with beadlocks. I wheel pretty hard. I have a cooler but I don't know how hot my fluid gets. I've never had a problem with starvation.

the boostwerks brace it nice because it has an extra bearing on the sector shaft itself instead of just bracing the box.

as for the fitting... I have no idea. I carry caps to cap off my box taps if needed and extra lines since the lines are pretty cheap.

where did you get your ram? usually the 6" strokes are cheaper.
 
8" isnt enormous. its a pretty common size, i just measured mine yesterday for assist, right at 8".

insert "thats what she said" joke anywhere you want....



id also like to know this one.


8" is common for 44 and 60s but a 30 is 6". I get it though. build a 2" stopper and just remove the stop if you ever upgrade axles.
 
I ran 36x13.50 and 37x12.50 tires aired down to 8psi in the rocks with beadlocks. I wheel pretty hard. I have a cooler but I don't know how hot my fluid gets. I've never had a problem with starvation.

the boostwerks brace it nice because it has an extra bearing on the sector shaft itself instead of just bracing the box.

as for the fitting... I have no idea. I carry caps to cap off my box taps if needed and extra lines since the lines are pretty cheap.

where did you get your ram? usually the 6" strokes are cheaper.

Yea, I know how the Boostwerks brace works. It's exactly like my design functionally, it just requires dropping the sway bar mounts, which wouldn't work for my heep.

Ram from PrincessAuto (big ag/surplus supply in Canada). For some reason their 8" are 30% cheaper than their 6". Identical in every way except the stroke (that's what she said). But yea, I may end up going to a 44, or 609's, so the 8" now just saves me time/money later, without any problems now. (I'm really hoping I can stop it internally though, cause man is it ugly having external stops).

A cooler is the one thing I haven't been able to find yet (locally), but I figure if I find that I need it, it'll be easy to slap in later.
 
Yea, I know how the Boostwerks brace works. It's exactly like my design functionally, it just requires dropping the sway bar mounts, which wouldn't work for my heep.

Ram from PrincessAuto (big ag/surplus supply in Canada). For some reason their 8" are 30% cheaper than their 6". Identical in every way except the stroke (that's what she said).

A cooler is the one thing I haven't been able to find yet (locally), but I figure if I find that I need it, it'll be easy to slap in later.


I got my cooler from a late 90's ford explorer.
 
98xj, 5.3L, WJ knuckles, 1 ton steering, driving 35's.

Picked up a 1.5" bore, 8" stroke ram, fittings and hose. Tapped a stock XJ box (no idea if it's any good, but figure it'll do for a test).
I believe mine is 8 inch from surplus center. If you think you tapped it right, you probably did.

I've also got a durango box on the Jeep now, but it's of course in need of a new sector shaft bearing,
I had a durango box and went back to an xj box. For me it was an issue of travel, the xj box would get my knuckles all the way to the stops, the durango would not.

and I've got lots of XJ boxes to mess up. The tap went okay and it's ready to install later today, but I'm wondering about fluid volume.
Most guys say you need to add about 10% more fluid to the system with a ram, but 1. That seems like a number pulled directly out of someones ass, as it doesn't take into account the ram bore, box bore, hose lengths, pump pressure/volume, tire size...

I have a PS pump from a 01 grand cherokee, I drilled out something that allows more flow, I think I would not drill it out and if then drill it out if you need it later. I had drilled mine out before I added the hydro assist. I guess I could grab the part from a JY to see how it would do. I have used the XJ reservoir since my York is next to my PS pump, but you can use the GC reservoir, you would have to cap off one of the returns it is slightly bigger than the xj. I added a small oil cooler, fin style universal from O'reilly.

I had a local EVCO build hoses and got fittings from them for the ram and the box. (cheaper than you would think)

My only issue is that quickly going from left to right doesn't happen, like if you wanted to solemn through some cones or something, it is ever only an inconvenience in parking lots, sometimes I am like "oh yeah I can't turn that quickly"

I did not install any stops on the ram, my understanding is that when you hit the end of the travel in the box the fluid by-passes and shouldn't keep pushing the ram. I don't keep the wheel at the stop, and try to tell my wife to not do it either.

hydro ram assist is one of those mods that everyone says "I should have done it sooner"

my rig, 99 xj with a d60, 37's, ruff stuff sterring

Nathan
build thread
https://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
 
Its pretty simple. Don't over think it. Call PSC and they will give you very straightforward advice and I highly recommend a PSC box already tapped for hydro assist.

If you are running a dana 30 and a stock pitman arm, get a 6x1.5", call up PSC they have the 6" rams for like 160$.

Match the ram to the knuckles/pitman arm throw. for the most part a 30 will need a 6" ram.

I run a 6" ram on my ford 60 and have plenty of turning, but no worries on not being limited and blowing out steering knuckles...
but I am still running a stock XJ pitman arm, 4 bolt PSC big bore box with hydro assist. I also run the smaller PSC pulley as well.

when I switch to a longer pitman arm, a WJ arm with master splines removed, ill be doing my custom PSC 1.75x7.5" ram that I had on my old hp44 front.


Are you running a PS cooler? Which pump do you have ?
 
is a clean tranny cooler a viable candidate for a power steering cooler? i ask because i have one lying around...

1483315_573094419411645_1370258950_n.jpg


sorry to hijack, but the topic has come up, and i didnt want to start a new thread.
 
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To the OP,

When using an auxiliary reservoir, you delete the stock reservoir. I don't think I have ever seen anyone run both.

You are right about any advice saying to "just add 10% more fluid". Its BS. Regardless of what reservoir you use you will need to bleed the system and make sure the fluid level is at the appropriate level.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Ram assist complete (mostly).

I tapped an old spare XJ box, ran the new HP's to an 8" stroke 1.5" bore ag ram, and the LP side of the box to a big filter canister (around 1.5L), then back to the stock reservoir. Cut a bit of HREW in half and tacked it to the ram piston for a stop. Unfortunately made the stop about 1/4" too long, so I've gotta cut it back off and shave it down.

But. Bleeding was actually really easy. The filter is the high point so I just filled it up first, then the reservoir. Gave it a few cranks lock to lock not running, fired it up, didn't suck any juice down at all. Gave it a few turns and still nothing. Pulled the filter to see if it was full of air, but it was full. Put it back on and started the engine again, and it sucked the reservoir dry. Oops. Dumped several more litres of steering juice in, couple more lock to lock, fired it up, lock again, more juice, do this a few times. Fluid completely aerated still from running dry, but level stable. Put wheels back on and dropped Jeepy back on it's feet. Lock to lock steering 35's on pavement with a pinky finger!

No idea yet if it'll all work as well as it's seeming to right now, but I'm damned impressed with how simple this was (or has been thus far). Tomorrow I'll cut the stop off again and shave it down, or maybe chop off the end of the piston and fab up a threaded, adjustable stop.
I would like to try without the stop because as has been mentioned, logically, when the box reaches it's limit, the fluid should go through the bypass, thus the ram shouldn't try to push the knuckles off the axle. Makes sense in my head. Will just have to test and see.

I'll update tomorrow with a performance write up and hopefully summation :).
 
On my system I do not run an aftermarket reservoir. The stick one suffices and does not starve the pump. I added a simple cooler on the low pressure side. Done.
 
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