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Rear main - tips/tricks?

VAhasnoWAVES

VAhasnoWAVES

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake City, Mi
doing the rear main... following the go jeep write up.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm

ive got the cap off, and am focusing on the upper half of the rear main... poking at it, it feels like its going to take a good bit of force to move it enough to get a pair of pliers on. is there a preferred tool to punch the old seal out? because it feels like i seem to simply be poking right through it.

and on the install of the new one, is there an SOP for installing it without destroying it in the process?


im one small rubber piece from reinstalling everything, id rather not dig myself into a hole now.
 
When I removed the upper portion on mine, I actually used a wood utensil instead of anything that could mar the sealing surface. In my case I think it was a skewer, or chop stick, or something like that. It was also blunt enough to push the seal, instead of stabbing into it. it does take a little bit of force, but it shouldn't be to hard.

As stated in that write up, I used some soapy water. When putting the new seal in you want to support it right where its entering the hole, and push from directly behind where your supporting it, and not way out on the end, cause this will cause it to snap. its really not that hard to push in, just taking your time. Its one of those things where your mind makes it more than it really is.

The rest is written up well in the write up, little dab of RTV on the lower half, and reinstall, etc etc.
 
There was a little trick this dude used on YouTube, when installing the upper half you use dish soap as well as a straw th you trim a point on(like a shovel) to kind shoehorn it in there. But the chopstick idea doesn't sound bad. Anyway I will be attempting this at some point, keep us posted!
 
I've seen a brass punch reccomended, or wood. I tried a chopstick since I didn't have a brass punch, the chopstick splintered. I ended up using a steel punch and used extreme caution! Worked good and came out rather easily, just use caution, no need to use any more force than neccesary. Find the steel wire that way you're not "poking right through it".I too saw the dishsoap/straw method and tried it, easy peasy.
 
Last one I did on a Tj I used a piece of hard plastic to knock it around enough. The old seal left some material on the block side so I took peices of grey scotch brite pad and passed them through a couple dozen times to clean the seal surface.
 
mtbxj87 said:
Last one I did on a Tj I used a piece of hard plastic to knock it around enough. The old seal left some material on the block side so I took peices of grey scotch brite pad and passed them through a couple dozen times to clean the seal surface.
Click to expand...

the lower half of the seal left pieces in the cap once i removed it as well. i used a plastic pick to get that out. just need to tackle the top and reinstall.



thanks all.
 
Brass rod work best for me (1/8" IIRC), and you can pick up at any hardware store. Cut off a small piece to use as a punch to work the upper seal half out.

If it doesn't tap out right way, you may have to loosen all the bearing caps. No biggee....just a few loose turns on all the bearing caps to take pressure off the crank. Be sure to retorque the bearing cap bolts to spec when RMS has been replaced.

Another trick I really liked when I went to reinstall the pan, was to use some RTV and install the pan gasket to the bottom of the engine block. Apply a thin strip of RTV round the bottom of the block. You don't need ungodly amounts of RTV. Just enough for the gasket to stick to the block. Start from the back around the dip and begin pressing the gasket in place. As you do this, use some of the pan bolts to hold the gasket in place as you work your way towards the front of the engine. Go back and press the gasket in place really well and let it sit for a while. Once the RTV has had a chance to set, you can remove the pan bolts holding the gasket in place, then proceed to install the pan. I feel it works better than using the zip ties or rubber band trick to hold the gasket to the pan. What worried me about gasket to the oil pan aspect, is that if the gasket at the rear of the pan dip is not perfectly in place to meet the groove in the rear bearing cap, you're going to wind up with a bigger leak. At least my way you know the gasket is where it is suppose to end up on the block, and the pan will seat it the rest of the way.
 
Ivan said:
Brass rod work best for me (1/8" IIRC), and you can pick up at any hardware store. Cut off a small piece to use as a punch to work the upper seal half out.

If it doesn't tap out right way, you may have to loosen all the bearing caps. No biggee....just a few loose turns on all the bearing caps to take pressure off the crank. Be sure to retorque the bearing cap bolts to spec when RMS has been replaced.

Another trick I really liked when I went to reinstall the pan, was to use some RTV and install the pan gasket to the bottom of the engine block. Apply a thin strip of RTV round the bottom of the block. You don't need ungodly amounts of RTV. Just enough for the gasket to stick to the block. Start from the back around the dip and begin pressing the gasket in place. As you do this, use some of the pan bolts to hold the gasket in place as you work your way towards the front of the engine. Go back and press the gasket in place really well and let it sit for a while. Once the RTV has had a chance to set, you can remove the pan bolts holding the gasket in place, then proceed to install the pan. I feel it works better than using the zip ties or rubber band trick to hold the gasket to the pan. What worried me about gasket to the oil pan aspect, is that if the gasket at the rear of the pan dip is not perfectly in place to meet the groove in the rear bearing cap, you're going to wind up with a bigger leak. At least my way you know the gasket is where it is suppose to end up on the block, and the pan will seat it the rest of the way.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip on the oil pan.

the upper half really didnt want to move, but once i got it going with one well placed tap, it came right out. the new one slipped right i too. reinstall time... almost beer time.
 
I use the little fel pro gasket holders for mine. They screw into a few holes and hold the gasket in place while you put the pan on. No waiting for RTV to dry
 
Subscribing.
:eek:wl:
 
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