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Engine swap...

H

hayhaulerleradoxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denison, Texas 75020
Good Morning people...I'm getting read to pull out my factory 4.0. & and install another..is it possible to do all this without pulling the tranny to? Are there any good tools you recommend for getting the tranny bolts? I appreciate your help, and im planning to be a member ASAP.:cheers:
 
You can pull it as an entire unit, but I don't like to do it whole because frankly it's scary, you have to get it pretty high to clear the front cross member. The wheels aren't the best on my engine hoist.

It's easy enough to split the trans and engine, use inverted torx sockets on a 3' extension for the top 2 bolts. Don't forget any bolts.
 
When we swapped mine a few months ago we left the tranny in. Pulled the center console and went through there with I think a 24" or 30" extension. My buddy jumped in the engine bay looked for the tool then put it on the bolt for me and I cranked it out. You will need the torx e-12 for the top bolts. We also dropped the cross member/Tranny/Transfer case as low as we could and it made it a little easier getting the the e-12s. Don't for get the bolts on the engine side, I think they hold the flex plate covers as well. We did not have to pull the radiator either, just the fan and it lifted right out, close but it came out.
 
jhc7399 said:
We also dropped the cross member/Tranny/Transfer case as low as we could and it made it a little easier getting the the e-12s.
Click to expand...
I bought some longer bolts to hold the cross member (don't remember the size). To get the drop I wanted, I had the engine mounts removed, hoist holding the engine. I felt that having the longer bolts hold the transmission was safer than balancing everything on the floor jack while I removed the top bolts. I forget what I did to support the front of the transmission, after it separated from the engine.
 
hayhaulerleradoxj said:
T...Will new head bolts really be a better choice?:cheers:
Click to expand...

Absolutely. When we pulled the head, prior to the complete motor rebuild, this engine, according to the previous owner, had never been touched. riiigggghhhttt. Some of the bolts were near finger tight, others required a big breaker bar to remove. Needless to say, they all got replaced.

David Bricker / SYR
 
I want to say thank you to each one that shared your past experience with me on my questions..I'm gathering supplies and tools needed.. I have been asking the local auto parts dealers in my area about head bolts and they all say they are not available?...Is there site you know of that sells them?:cheers:
 
Don't take this for fact, Clear water Cylinder heads, of Florida may sell new bolts. On mine the last long bolt facing firewall was cut to ease install/removal.
 
115 is what I was told by a fellow jeep friend since I decided to re use bolts that were already stretched. I also used permetex on every stud to make sure it was a good seal. Now ik you can only reuse them one time and I bought my jeep knowing the previous owner had done head work or at least tried (he forgot to get head milled and pressure checked) so it is up to you if you wanna do what I did but I have had no issues other than the two weeks of getting all my air bubbles out of radiator lol
 
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