Cherokee Axle Question

Noticed a lot of people building their XJ's using the stock dana30 front axle. I'm new to the jeep world but looking to build my xj to be able to handle moderate 4wheeling. Looking for recommendations on a front and rear axle build. Not looking to really but the wallet but definitely looking to beef up my suspension. Is there any websites that sell direct fitment axles or are the dana30's perfect for the xj platforms??

D30 is a pretty good axle. It's light, cheap, abundant, it's already under your jeep and it has tons of aftermarket support. from what I've seen, as long as you don't run into shit at speed, it'll hold up.

D30 high pinon = good, especially if moderate is as bad as you're gonna beat it.
D30 low pinon (00-01 only) = less good, ok for moderate wheeling with low lift

D35 rear = bad. Replace with a D44, Chrysler 8.25, or ford 8.8

what's the definition of "moderate"

buy an XJ with a D30/8.25
put lockers in them
go wheeling.

mtbxj87 said:

D30 is a pretty good axle....

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IslanderOffRoad said:

D30 high pinon = good, especially if moderate is as bad as you're gonna beat it.
D30 low pinon (00-01 only) = less good, ok for moderate wheeling with low lift

D35 rear = bad. Replace with a D44, Chrysler 8.25, or ford 8.8

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I've heard this several times. And the obvious opposite about a D35. D30 = good, D35 = bad, but they're almost the same axle in strength and size. I've heard of a few D35 failing but everybody I know has broken an axle/u-joint on a D30. The D30 is crap just the same as the D35. Either can be "built" and there's nothing you can do to strengthen the ring/pinion. IMO they're the same.

I think what's really going here is that the D30 can't be simply bolt-in upgraded like the D35 or is just very expensive so everybody is just lying to themselves about how good it is. No offense. Just my opinion. :loveu:

Yes, you can get a direct aftermarket replacement for the D30 but you need to look at Wrangler axles (rarely they will even mention they fit XJs too) and they're very expensive. I'm not sure which model Wrangles (maybe TJ) are the same but I'm sure somebody can help.

I think the fondness for the Dana 30 (including me) comes from the fact that most of us started out in the sport with one bolted in the front of our XJ's. At least early on we were absolutely amazed on how much we could abuse this little axle and still drive it home. We bend brackets,broke axles, bent control arms, bolted on bigger rubber but still it kept going.

Some of my best times wheeling was with a Dana 30. Hah

Thanks for the reply guys....planning on keeping my Dana 30 and purchasing the c-gussets and truss kit from artec industries and while I'm there I'll prolly upgrade to Reid nuckles and upgrade the shafts.....

MikeMc said:

I've heard this several times. And the obvious opposite about a D35. D30 = good, D35 = bad, but they're almost the same axle in strength and size. I've heard of a few D35 failing but everybody I know has broken an axle/u-joint on a D30. The D30 is crap just the same as the D35. Either can be "built" and there's nothing you can do to strengthen the ring/pinion. IMO they're the same.

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D30 can be strengthened incrementally quite a bit. D35 has far fewer upgrade options and its easier and cheaper to swap an 8.25 or 8.8 than to polish a D35 to the same level, not just R&P but also axle shafts, and then you have more options. D30 is buildable, D35 just replace it.

branz1029 said:

Thanks for the reply guys....planning on keeping my Dana 30 and purchasing the c-gussets and truss kit from artec industries and while I'm there I'll prolly upgrade to Reid nuckles and upgrade the shafts.....

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Before you go to reid knuckles, take a look at the wj steering knuckle conversion.

I run a mostly stock D30HP and Ford 8.8 with 4.11's on 33's. Works great for me as a DD and has definitely taken its fair share of trail abuse and still keeps chugging. Unless you are going to be rock hopping and looking to break stuff you should be good with a D30. I would go with a 8.8 in the rear cheap, LSD, bigger axle shafts and disc brakes. Personally I wold save some cash on the truss, knuckles etc if you aren't planning on really beating on it. Just put the right gears in with a locker/LSD and go wheelin!

Yes a D30 is small and so is a D35 but people are forgetting a few key things that allows one to hold up a bit better than the other. Weight transfer is something you wont get away from in a wheeling rig. Meaning anytime you climb something the percentage of the rigs total weight shifts. This added weight and traction from lockers and better tires will push a D35 to the max in no time. Its a semi float setup so the shafts are doing double duty sending torque and supporting weight. Yes most the parts in a D35 are bigger than a D30 but the 30 will hold up to much more. Why?

Well to start by design a front axle is a Full floating axle so the shafts just send torque and nothing else. Rig hop tends to all ways happen in the rear of a rig so its less stress for the little tubed 30 to deal with. And if its a High pinion axle then the pinion runs on the stronger(drive) side of the ring gear. The stock shafts are not the best and if you lock a 30 you will see that. Both D44 and D30 use the same Ujoints. But one thing to keep in mind is after a shaft upgrade and locker the little 7.12" ring gear will always be the weak link in the end. Should that put you off to using a D30? Hell no its still a good axle its just not a beast. Some cheap and simple things help them out like C gussets and tube sleeve or cheap/home build truss. Just keep in mind its still and always will have a little ring gear so dumping tons into a D30 its prob not the best use of coin.

Weight transfer to the rear is your friend...

...until you have to backup.

... uphill.

Companies like Dynatrac make bolt in upgrade axles
http://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-tj-wrangler/prorock-60.html