My front ox locker was not engaging. I read that it comes out of adjustment sometimes so I adjusted it. I got it set up, locked it to check, heard it engage I believe, but then when I unlocked it the cable came out of adjustment again. What am I doing wrong? Any advice on what's going on and what I can do? I'm taking it out this weekend.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
OX Locker Problem
- Thread starter ctxj99
- Start date
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Deja Vu' all over again!
This is exactly why I yanked mine after 1 year. I spent more time adjusting the damn cable than you can imagine.
This is exactly why I yanked mine after 1 year. I spent more time adjusting the damn cable than you can imagine.
GroversXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Peoples Republik of Kalifornia
My dad melted his cable on his crossover tube twice before he converted it to use an electrical solenoid. Not your same problem but he has been happy with the ox ever since the conversion.
How did he convert it?
What did you replace it with?
GroversXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Peoples Republik of Kalifornia
I will shoot him an email and see if he can give me a link to how he did it. He is a mechanical engineer too so he may have just designed a system himself as he has worked machinery design his whole career. All i remember is he used a solenoid to engage and disengage the locker as it was 8 or so years ago when he did it.
GroversXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Peoples Republik of Kalifornia
Apparently I don't remember things well, as he used air, not an electrical solenoid. Here is what my dad sent me in the email.
After melting 3 cables, getting the locker to work only once each cable, I followed your recommendation to replace the cable with an air cylinder, as described in an article you told me about on the internet. The cylinder is a Bimba, and as I recall the bore is 1.0625. That is the largest that has the correct shaft threads. I used 1/8" nylon tubing and fittings. The biggest problem is that it takes about 100 PSI to operate it consistently. I modified the plumbing using a 4 way 5 port valve backwards, so I could use engine vacuum on the other side of the piston when energized so only 85 PSI is needed. I added a small air tank and a small air compressor and pressure switch, independent of my removable 12V compressor for airing up tires. I still don't need my locker very often because I have limited slip in the rear and excellent articulation, but it is very nice to have when needed. I hope this helps.
I looked on the ox website and they seem to be selling an air actuator and an electrical unit as well to replace the cable so if you have more money than time and aren't adventurous to trial and error you already have a possible solution without buying a new locker ~$150 on their site.
After melting 3 cables, getting the locker to work only once each cable, I followed your recommendation to replace the cable with an air cylinder, as described in an article you told me about on the internet. The cylinder is a Bimba, and as I recall the bore is 1.0625. That is the largest that has the correct shaft threads. I used 1/8" nylon tubing and fittings. The biggest problem is that it takes about 100 PSI to operate it consistently. I modified the plumbing using a 4 way 5 port valve backwards, so I could use engine vacuum on the other side of the piston when energized so only 85 PSI is needed. I added a small air tank and a small air compressor and pressure switch, independent of my removable 12V compressor for airing up tires. I still don't need my locker very often because I have limited slip in the rear and excellent articulation, but it is very nice to have when needed. I hope this helps.
I looked on the ox website and they seem to be selling an air actuator and an electrical unit as well to replace the cable so if you have more money than time and aren't adventurous to trial and error you already have a possible solution without buying a new locker ~$150 on their site.
Last edited:
93blackxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Port Richey
Check out their website or youtube they have some videos to watch.
Rod Knee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grand Jct., CO
I am reminded once again why I bought a Detroit.
Did you use Loctite on the cable threads during adjustment as the instructions state?
I didn't at first and my cable kept coming un-adjusted. I finally put some thread lock during adjustment and it stayed put for several years.
Routing the cable outside the drive side frame rail instead of through the engine compartment will keep you from melting cables.
I didn't at first and my cable kept coming un-adjusted. I finally put some thread lock during adjustment and it stayed put for several years.
Routing the cable outside the drive side frame rail instead of through the engine compartment will keep you from melting cables.
edgreeson65
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- san diego
I've had mine running for 4 yrs. w/ no problems - maybe route the cable better & get one of the flexable heat sheilds to go over the cable where it runs by the exhaust.