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Battery Relocation--Underneath?

Aggie_Cobra

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
I'm in the middle of my 5.3L swap and because of my AC compressor location, the stock battery real estate is gone. I'd prefer to not have the battery on the interior: I don't want to give up the room.

This is a DD street build and my XJ is 2WD; therefore, no t-case. I'm thinking of placing the battery on the cross-member where the front driveshaft portion of the t-case usually is. I'd use some type of substantial battery box.

Any issues you can think of with this?

Thanks!

--Robert
 
I cut a bit from the inner fender, built a corner that sits in it and put the battery there. Lower and out of the way. I also fabbed hold down tabs for it.





It didn't interfere in the stock incarnation, shouldn't be one for a 2wd.
 
No problem except for salt / water corrosion potential that I can see. Keep it serviceable, keep it serviced, no problem.
 
Make sure it's securely fastened so it can't bounce up into the floorboards, directly under your ass is the last place you want both battery terminals to weld themselves to your floorboards and then start an electrical fire involving boiling battery acid and molten lead.

I'd actually find a way to put a lexan housing/shield in between the battery and the floorboard, honestly. It would not be pretty if you got t-boned and the battery got pushed up into (or the floor crumpled down into) the terminals.

Oh, find a way to shield it from a thrown driveshaft, too. If you toss a driveshaft with your 5.3 you really don't want it blasting chunks out of your battery/cabling on its way to freedom.
 
Get a AGM battery like a Bluetop Optima(only optima I swear by), and mount it sideways..
 
AGM or gel cell - I wouldn't go with a conventional "wet" battery, because you're going to be limited to mounting it upright - and that's not necessarily a good thing.

Be generous with corrosion inhibitor (Gardner-Bender Ox-Gard or similar. DO NOT USE: "liquid electrical tape," WD-40, or anything else that is not meant for this use!) on your terminations, check annually at a minimum. If you're subject to wet weather and the like, check it more often during the rainy season. (Yes, even if you enclose it. I don't recommend fully enclosing the battery in this case anyhow - shield it, yes. Splash guard, yes. Cover the terminals, yes. But fully enclosing the battery will disincline you to inspect it at intervals, and you don't need that.)

If real estate is at a premium, I would also suggest you check 14V batteries for G/A (they're still 12V systems - aviation just calls them "14V" and "28V" instead of "12V" and "24V.") Outfits like Wicks Aircraft Supply or Aircraft Spruce & Supply may prove useful - you'll have to pay more for the battery, but you can usually get something that gives you the same power - or more! - with less volume and less weight. Something to consider...
 
I have glanced over your build, so forgive my ignorance if it was shown/mentioned. Are you using the stock cross member? If so, maybe a combo of that and a battery box plus maybe a factory t-case skid to give you more protection? Otherwise, maybe a custom or aftermarket cross member. Maybe use some UMHW or other to help in between the battery and the floor.
 
I cut a bit from the inner fender, built a corner that sits in it and put the battery there. Lower and out of the way. I also fabbed hold down tabs for it.





It didn't interfere in the stock incarnation, shouldn't be one for a 2wd.

I had seen this before and had tried to find it but couldn't. I'm going to see if this will do the trick. If not, then I'll incorporate all suggestions above for the crossmember mount: sturdy mounting, heavy insulation between top of battery and floor, careful cable routing, protection from driveshaft.
 
Follow your heart
 
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