Replaced radiator, now have problems

Okay guys, so the stock radiator was leaking BAD, so I decided to replace it, and the tstat. Got her all buttoned up,(OEM from Oreily's) and now it seems like the cooling system isn't building pressure? got it up to 70, drove about 15 minutes, parked it, popped the hood and the radiator cap(brand new replaced as well) is COLD. the top hose is HOT, was able to open up the radiator without even a hiss of pressure bleeding off?! :dunno: what gives?

Also, there is now a pretty loud "ticking" coming from the passenger side firewall area that wasn't there before, and a loud high pitched noice that i can only describe as what sounds like a vacuum leak(checked all the vacuum hoses that I can think of, all are fine.

Temps are reading just below 210-210 on the dot, oil pressure is at 50-55.

Any ideas? Could I just need to add more radiator fluid? I put in 2 gallons, plus whatever was in the block.

Given the ambient temps, sounds normal to me.

Huh. I've never had a radiator cap stay cool like that

If you didn't start the engine and top off the radiator before your test drive, there probably is an air bubble in the cooling system. Did you buy a new radiator cap also ?

Add more fluid to the radiator, and fill the overflow reservoir.

Located and identify the source of the noises.

I didn't do that, abs she has a new cap. Best way ti get rid if the air bubble?

In all of the 'open-radiator-systems' I've had.., I just run at idle for around fifteen minutes, dash heater control on heat, and then with cap off of radiator, constantly replenishing, (topping off), coolant directly into radiator, and coolant tank. LOL.., just be careful to not slip pouring coolant into your radiator by missing the hole, and have the radiator fan spray coolant all over you, or helper.

USAF007 said:

Any ideas? Could I just need to add more radiator fluid? I put in 2 gallons, plus whatever was in the block.

Click to expand...

If you replaced the radiator, you drained all the coolant and very little would be left in the block. Every time I've done that I've added ~~12 qts. (3 gallons).

Check it again.

See here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1109836

My cooling system isn't pressurizing as quickly as I thought it should in this cold weather and from research I believe its due to the radiator cap being a vented style. The Stant part number is 10231.

On the ticking noise check the solenoid on the firewall with the green cap.

Alaskan89XJ said:

In all of the 'open-radiator-systems' I've had.., I just run at idle for around fifteen minutes, dash heater control on heat, and then with cap off of radiator, constantly replenishing, (topping off), coolant directly into radiator, and coolant tank. LOL.., just be careful to not slip pouring coolant into your radiator by missing the hole, and have the radiator fan spray coolant all over you, or helper.

Click to expand...

And make sure the front end is pointed up

Sitting level is fine for filling '91+ open cooling systems. I can't speak for the earlier closed systems.

level is fine as the engine is already at an angle, but having the front elevated defiantly helps. When I am filling a dry system I elevate the front 2 feet, fill it then walk away for the evening. The next morning it takes .5-.75 gallon more. After a good run it needs only like half a quart more.

I'm not questioning what others have done or needed to do to get a satisfactory fill. I've just never had to do it.

Alaskan89XJ above and others in the endless threads on the subject set out the steps for a good fill so I won't bore by going through the whole process again.