Will a WJ front axle swap under my XJ?????

Hello all. My 01 Cherokee is a 2WD that was given to me by my father. I have had the engine rebuilt along with a banks header installed. I have owned a 90' 5spd 4WD and a 97' 4WD XJ in the past as well as a 90 YJ. Alot of people say its just cheaper to sell the 01 2WD and buy a 4WD. For me personally i want to keep dad's and convert it. It still has the stock tranny so since it will have to be rebuilt one day anyway, might as well install a 4WD tranny. I plan on sticking with 33's for tire size with possibly 35" way down the road. Every Jeep i've owned i have hated those brakes..lol I've been researching trying to figure out my front axle swap which i also want to tackle the braking problem. If my XJ was already 4WD i would do the WJ front brake swap. Since mine isn't. Can i swap in the whole complete front axle. Cut off the WJ axle brackets and reweld new XJ brackets in there proper place. I realize the WJ axle is wider. For the rear i'm going the 8.8 route with a c-clip elim. kit. Can add a small wheel spacer if needed. I think i' pretty sure the WJ axle should work, but need yall's reassurance.

You might be able to, but IIRC it is a low pinion d30 and you'll be doing a lot of work for very little improvement.

If you can find a set of JK axles, they will require about the same amount of work, but will be a significant upgrade.

Is the 01 auto or manual? AW4s are damn near bulletproof. AX15s are pretty close to bulletproof as well, as long as the fluid's been changed at least every 50-75k and the owner knew how to operate a manual transmission.

I would grab a regular 95-99 XJ d30, front driveshaft, 96-01 4.0 rear driveshaft to match the rearend and tranny you are putting in, transmission, tcase, and tcase shift linkage. IIRC that is all you need to do the swap.

Wj axle is not only low pinion, but it runs cv shafts. That being said, the stock front axle in the wife's wj with the 4.7 is holding up fine to 35's

Hello kastein thanks for the input. My XJ is auto. I've been looking at the JK axles for some time actually. Watched some on Ebay. Saw a no milage set go for $4600. Really more $$ than i want to go with but who knows maybe down in the yards around here i'll find a deal. They might not be in the loop on the demand..lol I do like the increased stability from the JK axles. 8.8's go around here for around $250. I'm pretty sure the HP Dana 30 is pretty close in price. I've seen clunker 4x4 XJ's for $1500-$2000. I might go that route and i'll have everything i need to swap and scrap the rest. Decisions, Decisions.

What up zach yeah i found out they run cv shafts in the WJ while researching. Wonder why they switched. IRO sells a ujoint shaft setup that i could upgrade to if i had issues with cv's. The WJ axle seem's to be a no brainer and i've seen them for $350-$400. I was figuring someone on has done this swap but i think the low pinion design makes them not so popular for that . I can do bolt in axle swaps and lift kits its the welding that screws me up so the local offroad shop would have to set up the Xj brackets on the WJ housing if i go that route.

zachandandy said:

Wj axle is not only low pinion, but it runs cv shafts. That being said, the stock front axle in the wife's wj with the 4.7 is holding up fine to 35's

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yep. IRO used to have a set of ujoint axleshafts available for it, but I don't know if they still do.

The lug pattern is 5x5 and its wider than xj width, so it won't match the rear. IMHO it's not common cause its not worth it. Same effort, width issues, and lug pattern problem as swapping in an hp 44 and they can be had for about the same money. If its not a bolt in swap, a dana 30 is a waste of time and money.

I suppose also the WJ drag link, tie rod and the trackbar would have to be addressed to make it work on my XJ. Pretty sure i could work those out as long as all the bracketry is lined out on the axle.

If you're gonna swap in a Dana 30 just make it easy on yourself and do an XJ 30. They are very common in the HP non-disconnect configuration and it will all be a direct bolt-in swap. You should even be able to use your factory 2wd brake calipers if you get a mid to late-90's model 30 so you wouldn't even need to crack open the braking system to install it. Talk about simple! Unbolt the old, bolt in the replacement. No muss no fuss.

Not to mention you're considering an Explorer (I'd assume) 8.8 swap for the rear. The 8.8 rear is approximately 5/8" narrower on each side than an XJ D30 so you can get away with not running spacers if you so choose, and the 8.8 uses the same 5x4.5" bolt pattern as the Jeep. If you swapped to a WJ axle you'd have to choose between redrilling the WJ unit bearings & discs to 5x4.5", or redrilling the 8.8 to the 5x5" pattern of the WJ axle, or use wheel spacer/adapters to make them what you want. Either way it's not going to be cheap. That being said, if you're not running factory ABS the '01 model should have the 29 spline 8.25" rear axle already which is a good axle and in my opinion not worth the cost and effort to swap to an 8.8. They both have their merits and both have their detractions, but in the end I don't think it's worth it especially when factory junkyard disc brake parts can easily be swapped onto it for a nice upgrade (this is just my opinion so let's not let this thread degrade into the typical old 8.25" vs 8.8 debate)

I'm not sure about the steering swapping over from a WJ because honestly I've never considered such a swap, but I do know that even the factory ZJ drag link (not to be confused with the popular V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade) will hit the XJ D30's passenger side sway bar mount. I realize the ZJ & WJ are different, but that's just one more hurdle you may be forced to overcome if your XJ's factory steering won't clear the WJ axle's track bar or sway bar mounts, and even if you got a WJ axle for free you may wind up spending the same or more swapping it in than if you'd have just swapped in an XJ 30 to begin with.

If it were me, I'd just swap in the XJ D30 and be done with it. If I wanted to get into an involved swap, I'd go with JK 44's to at least get a strength upgrade for all the hard work.

Morning all. Yeah the WJ front width to Ford 8.8 rear width could be an issue. for the rear if i add a c-clip elim it will widen both sides by an inch. Something that needs to be done even if i put in a front XJ dana 30 axle so they would match in the width department. If i add a 5 X 41/2" to 5 X 5" adapter also on the rear it should make the rear axle width be even with the front WJ 30 or barely wider which would be acceptable to me. The cost on top of purchasing these axles and also regearing with a traction device probably will come in close to the cost of a basic set of JK axles. I'm gonna search all these yards around the Houston area and believe me there are alot of them. If i find a good deal then the JK axles would be smarter to run.

I have a few 2wd WJ beam axles and in terms of measurements the stock WJ mounts look to bolt right up, I think the coil buckets will also be good for about an inch of lift.

I'm considering the swap just cause I have a WJ as well, all the brakes on my XJ are junk and well, the WJ stuff is just as cheap as the XJ stuff and having everything be uniform on all my rigs

so no matter what I'll figure this out, a HD drop trackbar bracket should be all that is needed to bolt ALL the WJ stuff up to the XJ, and maybe ream the pitman arm out a little bit. not counting the swaybar and I'm not gonna run it so i don't care, but that shouldn't be very difficult (rotate the links 180* and bolt them on, and it shouldn't need more than that)

again, I have tons of WJ stuff around, so I'm converting because I'm never going bigger than 35s and I want CV axles to use full-time AWD on the street (yes, I can use ZJ/early selectrac cv axles, but they are weak, the WJ stuff is actually kinda tough, similar to toyota birfields. fine for anything up to 35's, more clearance underneath and less unsprung weight)

Why not get a xj axle? Saves the trouble of modifying stuff to fit a different model.

ILoveJeeps said:

Why not get a xj axle? Saves the trouble of modifying stuff to fit a different model.

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1. NOT using any shape or form of a machined spacer welded to the knuckle to run WJ knuckles and steering. I hate this idea because it is bad, wrong, stupid, etc.

2. I have a pile of WJ parts that are good.

3. I like how a WJ drives and responds, the more WJ like I can make my XJ the better.

4. Part interchangability between all my Jeeps, the more hard parts that directly interchange the better, and I'm not "downgrading" the WJ to XJ stuff. if everything from the springs and shafts out is more or less stock WJ stuff I don't need different sets of spare parts, one set of trail spares covers all, and all are interchangable.

The difference you feel on the road at high speed just by moving the balljoints outward 1.5" on each side from center is substantial.

i like the idea of CV shafts inside the axle for this build, and besides what's the fun in a bolt-in no thought required swap that still needs some custom parts, I want everything but the springs, shocks, trackbar mount and pitman arm to be easily obtained from any 99-04 WJ, trackbar mount will obviously be custom and pitman arm/trackbar mount will kind of determine each other. even if adjustable trackbar is used it will be some off the shelf aftermarket WJ part.

the idea here is to replicate as closely as possible, the WJ's driving characteristics, much of this comes from the axle width, length and angles of the draglink/tierod. I have taken measurements and all the axle mounting points are within fractions of an inch of each other for all four link arms, the steering, trackbar and pinion snout (which was the same as the WJ on low pinion 00-01 XJs) are the only real differences. Driveshaft is cut to fit and done. relocation of the draglink/trackbar is the only fabrication/aftermarket part sourcing that may be needed in the whole swap (never cut and weld a pitman arm, mmmkay)

I believe an XJ aftermarket HD trackbar bracket may be the answer, there are extended versions with matching pitman arms. I believe the bracket will have to move forward on the "framerail" just by my rough tape measure triangulations but it doesn't look terribly hard to pull off, wider is better, and if I can swap in all the WJ brake hoses and run 'em along the LCAs, along with literally the rest of the WJ's brake setup front AND rear I might be able to make the ABS system work as well. which would be pretty cool, and good for an insurance discount!

plus I can step to 3.73 gears in the process, already have a dana35 and at least the disc brakes keep the axle from walking all the way out when they break, swapping shafts ain't that hard and it's gonna be on 3" and 31's with stock crap for a while until I find a killer wheel/tire deal with some 32"-33" tires on some nice JK wheels and even then, the WJ gets the 4wd swap before the XJ gets a WJ axle.

Actually, if you want a good solid rearend that might be a good match for a WJ front width, I know some Durangos came with 8.25s (I am running the LSD out of one in the 8.25 swapped into my MJ) and I know 04+ Durangos are a wide 5 lug pattern instead of the 6x4.5 pattern on 03- ones. I'm not sure there's a Durango 8.25 with 5 lugs, but some junkyard or parts catalog perusal should tell you. There's an 8.25-like axle in the 5 lug ones but it has a goofy Watts linkage for the rear suspension centering instead of a track bar and it bolts to a special diff cover, so I am not quite 100% sure. But again, some parts catalogs checking should tell you for sure.

The 04+ Durangos use 5x5.5, so you could 1. use adapters or 2. run some redrilled rotors and alloy rear shafts. Moser does alloys with any specs for quite reasonable prices.

You'll have to weld new mounts on the rearend, but it's an 8.25 (maybe, and I KNOW there were 9.25s in some of them, which is a pretty beefy axle) 29 spline axle, may be available commonly with an LSD already in it, and I know for a fact they come with big-ass disc brakes on them. Having to do custom shafts and redrill some rotors for that kind of a setup instead of a WJ D35 is no downside in my mind.

I'm hitting the junkyard Christmas eve, I'll have to check and see what's out there.

Oh, and another fun thing? Some durangos have an 8.25 with a pinion companion flange like Toyota axles and Ford rearends. I'm a huge fan of those for trail durability reasons, I'm strongly considering grabbing one next time I'm under a Durango at the yard.

edit: yes, just checked, the HB chassis (04+ Durango) does come with the 8.25 or 9.25. If it's a familiar cover shape, it's the 8.25!

What up CHEAPXJ. So you've done some measurements on the WJ and XJ axle brackets already? They seem pretty close?? If so that would be cool. I plan on running a Clayton longarm setup. Me myself i also understand the XJ front axle swap into my 2WD would be the easyest path and i have thought of that of course. To me its not that much harder to just do the WJ front axle swap. Dont have to worry about the brake conversion and i like the added stability. My XJ is currently my DD with an hour trip to work each way at speeds between 40-65 so i want to build this smart and it to be dependable and get it right the first time type build. My offroad truck i've owned for about 8 years now is a 89' Dodge W150. Luckly i work at a warehouse in the receiving department. On my Dodge i eventually bought a Dana 60FF, had it shipped to work, threw it in the back of truck with our forklift and did the swap in a friends driveway. Eventually i found a wrecked W350 single wheel front axle and had it shipped to work. Of course all the hard brake lines were smashed during shipping. So rebent some at work, loaded it and swapped it in when i did my 6" lift. Crossover steering, rear shackle flip, cut fenders for 44" but i'm currently running 38" Swamper SSR's. A little custom work or going a different route than the usual's doesn't scare me on the XJ. In my mind without looking first hand i think the WJ front axle could work. I plan on eventually aking this my secondary trail wheeler so i'm trying to research it out correctly and ask lots of questions. Guess i'm gonna have to take a tape measure and find me some junk yard 4WD WJ's. Which WJ's have the better twin piston calibers and brackets? 2001-02?

the WJ D30 swap would be a relatively simple swap, but if you are planning to spend the $$ to "do it right" including the investment in the Clayton kit.. it's alot of work and $$ just to make a low-pinion axle work in a lifted rig.
do the axle you want but i'd suggest keeping it simple with an HP D30, or a set of JK axles.
also, dont waste your $$ on the C-clip eliminators if you do the 8.8.. i see no need for those on a vehicle that may have a "trail speed" related failure, the rear disc brakes will keep it all in place until you get to a safe spot to fix it.
however, i would consider them a must-have on a Mustang that sees high-speed track time and a failure could happen at "track-speed", when a failure at speed could take the caliper right off the housing.
good luck with the 2 to 4 conversion, i'm looking at converting my wife's 2004 2wd WJ before the transmission smokes, but this will still be her rig so it will all be stock WJ parts going into it.

I like the idea of something heavier, but I don't think this WJ will ever wear anything bigger than 32's, I'm trying to keep weight down and ground clearance up, and the 35 is fairly smooth underneath, it's light and is strong enough to live open on 32's. that and I want to adapt the WJ's complete ABS system, using its axles makes all this rather easy, doing leaf perches and shock mounts is cake and cutting all the other bullshyt off is fun.

i didn't even measure out the spring perches/shock mounts yet but they can't be any worse than using 78/79 ford 1/2ton D44 stuff.

all the bracketry on the XJ axle that needs reinforced is already much beefier on the WJ axle (there is a significant weight difference in that I can carry a loaded XJ axle around by myself but I can't even budge a WJ axle alone) the coil spring cups may need to be modified to work with XJ springs but they will provide some lift, looks like about 1.5"