Lock Right malfunctions(?)

Noticed a severely loud banging coming "from underneath" on occasion the last couple times I've been wheeling... the best way to describe it is like the sound a cheap ten-speed bike makes when it's shifting gears: Clang Clang Clang... With the front of the jeep raised, the driveshaft allows almost 1/4 revolution before the tires move...(pre-inspection diagnosos was stripped gears, but...)

Fearing the worst, I pulled the front cover off this morning. The oil was clean and the R & P gears look fine, as do the teeth on the locker, but it appears like it isn't working: spin one wheel and it just spins (overrides) the only way to get the opposing side to lock in is to take a prybar and force the two center parts apart. even then it uncouples as soon as the prybar is removed. Also I can see that the center pin has alot of movement...maybe 1/4" or more (towards it's center, not at the ends)

The only other time I've heard this was when my MJ's 231 chain was streched...this is that case, but the chain only has maybe 20k on it now.

This lock-right has seen a few miles of bumpy road...One Ton XJ(ab)used it before I got ahold of it and I have been less than tender...

What's the diagnosis? and do they sell rebuild kits (springs & pins) for these? I have to pull the carrier out soon to replace the seals, so that's prime time to go deeper.

TIA for advice

A test

Just backed it up into a tree in 4 low and gave it some gas...all 4 wheels spun w/o hesitation but the racket persists. Sounds like something is fixin to claymore.

Will change the T case lube and check the chain this eve when I get home from work...

difference between the two halves of the lock right in a d35 (from the installation manual) 5/32 of an inch tolerance is .145 of an inch and .165 of an inch. and yes you can buy the parts just bought one of e_bay and then called richmond gear and got the springs and pins for 10 bucks I think. John www.powertrax.com sales 1-800-583-gear

I plan on doing the same with the D35 and lock-rite that I just replaced with a D44 and an Aussie. I to will get new springs and pins for it and I also plan to magnflux it or at least use liquid penetrant to see if there is any unseen fatigue or cracking. I'll see if I can take some snap shots of the process.

I really liked working in the NDI (Non-Destructive Inspection) Lab, here at the Guard. It's kinda like a non-stop Mr Wizard show, , I may even take a look at the axle shafts I have been punishing over the last year too.

woody, the main crosspin (big 'un that goes all the way through the carrier) may have some wear:



i replaced mine with the heavy-duty 'zytamium' pin:



i replaced it about 6 months ago, and haven't had any problems since.

Randy's R&P will sell you the complete spring kit (with the lil spacer dealio) for around $10-$15

Woody,the "free wheeling" thing is normal. They only truly "lock" when force is applied to the driveshaft,but I don't know about the driveshaft revolutions. Mark said the ones he has can have up to 30 degrees (IIRC) of rotation before engagement As far as the noise goes,there are only 2 things I can tell you that sound like that(in my experience):
1)POS CV style front driveshaft going south
2)Stretched drive chain in the t-case

Now,I'm pretty sure you don't have the POS CV style front driveshaft.........

However,there is light at the end of the tunnel...........
I'm usually wrong

Woody, I'd pull that pin and mic it. I seem to remember mic'n it when I put the locker in and it was on the lower spectrum as far as the tolerance size.

Oh yeah, it's an EZ Locker uke: