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Wounded warrior build wire question
- Thread starter Tizzyusmc
- Start date
- Location
- Waukegan, IL
I'm just spitballing, but I'm going with ignition pick-up to module/ecm.
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
Sync sensor, I'm not sure where the ground goes, I seem to remember it ending up at the ignition module ground point, but I may be wrong. The other two end up at the ECU.
A few tips for sorting out your harnesses. Twist ties are your friend. I usually bundle the wires by the source (like the TPS, IAC etc.) and twist tie them together. Then I run that plastic cable sheath with the slit in the side, the way it needs to be ran around the cage. Find a handy spot that is easy to get to and roll the excess wire into small loops and leave it hanging outside the plastic cable sheath. When your finished, cut the excess wire, butt solder the wires together and use shrink tubing, a drop of super glue at the ends of the shrink tubing makes it waterproof and a forever connection. If the wires are too short, buy an assortment of colored electricians tape, butt solder a patch someplace in the middle and mark the wire with the proper colors every 8-10 inches. By the time you get done 2/3 rds of the wires will be unused anyway and what is actually necessary won't be nearly as complicated as you'd think. Once the wires are in the pülastic sheath, tapping the wires back together is unnecessary, you really don't need it. I've never had an issue with a wire inside the plastic sheathing, I just use small cable ties every so often to keep the wires bunched and again on the outside of the plastic sheathing so nothing pops out. A little extra time now may save you a real headache sometime out on the trails trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Crimp connectors aren't really the way to go IMO, solder and shrink tubing is how I do it. It is too easy to get a crimp connector wrong, with the wire too deep and crimping it on the insulation or missing the wire end and having it look good but not making proper contact.
By the time you get done you will likely know the electrical system pretty darned well.
A few tips for sorting out your harnesses. Twist ties are your friend. I usually bundle the wires by the source (like the TPS, IAC etc.) and twist tie them together. Then I run that plastic cable sheath with the slit in the side, the way it needs to be ran around the cage. Find a handy spot that is easy to get to and roll the excess wire into small loops and leave it hanging outside the plastic cable sheath. When your finished, cut the excess wire, butt solder the wires together and use shrink tubing, a drop of super glue at the ends of the shrink tubing makes it waterproof and a forever connection. If the wires are too short, buy an assortment of colored electricians tape, butt solder a patch someplace in the middle and mark the wire with the proper colors every 8-10 inches. By the time you get done 2/3 rds of the wires will be unused anyway and what is actually necessary won't be nearly as complicated as you'd think. Once the wires are in the pülastic sheath, tapping the wires back together is unnecessary, you really don't need it. I've never had an issue with a wire inside the plastic sheathing, I just use small cable ties every so often to keep the wires bunched and again on the outside of the plastic sheathing so nothing pops out. A little extra time now may save you a real headache sometime out on the trails trying to troubleshoot a problem.
Crimp connectors aren't really the way to go IMO, solder and shrink tubing is how I do it. It is too easy to get a crimp connector wrong, with the wire too deep and crimping it on the insulation or missing the wire end and having it look good but not making proper contact.
By the time you get done you will likely know the electrical system pretty darned well.
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
The ignition pickup on the Renix (and all XJ's after 86) is the CPS. What's in the distributor is a sync sensor or a cam position sensor and helps the computer decide when to fire the injectors.
Black was grounded at the engine block,
Someone cut them on accident we think.
So I have to try and find out where
Gray w/black and drk blue went too. They were connected in the harness and did not go to ecu I believe but I will double check. Just stinks that on the wiring diagram it doesn't show these mysterious wires...just show distributor and nothing else.
Off topic is there a company that makes a engine harness for the xj? I googled but couldn't find one, megasquirt or painless only seemed to do the CJs and Yjs.
Someone cut them on accident we think.
So I have to try and find out where
Gray w/black and drk blue went too. They were connected in the harness and did not go to ecu I believe but I will double check. Just stinks that on the wiring diagram it doesn't show these mysterious wires...just show distributor and nothing else.
Off topic is there a company that makes a engine harness for the xj? I googled but couldn't find one, megasquirt or painless only seemed to do the CJs and Yjs.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
YEAR!
I have 95 and 99 manuals still, and perhaps I could figure it out (the wiring diagrams are byzantine, but sometimes decipherable). But unless I've missed something, we don't have a year for this, and they changed a lot of wire colors.
I have 95 and 99 manuals still, and perhaps I could figure it out (the wiring diagrams are byzantine, but sometimes decipherable). But unless I've missed something, we don't have a year for this, and they changed a lot of wire colors.
Thanks brother, this got us on the right track! Without it I would have been lost...
