Wheel is locked, key won't turn. What to try?

Hello guys, Im having some issues with my 2000 2 door Cherokee Sport. The trans is auto and its 4wd, has about 90,000 miles on it.

For the past couple months, every once in a while, the key would not turn in the ignition. I could eventually get it to turn with a few jiggles and I'd go about my day. A couple days ago this happened but I cannot get my key to turn at all and I had to have it towed home. In my attempts to turn the key, I ended up get the wheel locked as well. Edit: It will not shift, its currently in park.

I also have had some turn signal issues along with a maxed out voltmeter every once in a while. These issue happen infrequently enough that I didn't pay much attention to them, just kept an eye on things.

I have noticed a couple things that seem to occur at the same time as the key being unable to turn. It happens more frequently at work when I park on a slight incline and do not use my e-brake. This leads me to believe it could be a NSS issue?

I'm looking for any suggestions to try before I call a shop, I've got tools and I know XJs pretty well.

The symptoms describe a dirty/broken ignition lock cylinder (or more rarely a broken ignition switch pin). Watch this video -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5m31g0-3wI&feature=player_detailpage

A faulty NSS would simply result in the starter not working.


.

I watched the video and took the shroud off the steering column but I cannot turn the key into "on" to release the ignition. Would having another key cut be worth a shot?

Is the steering wheel locked? You could try to wiggle the steering wheel while turning the key. If that dosent work, I have had some luck tapping the key lightly with a hammer

Yes, the steering wheel is locked. Ive tried tapping it a million times, no go.

If you can take the key out remove it and apply a liberal amount of penetrating lubricant to the key, then insert and remove several times.
That happened on my old range rover classic all the time, this fixed it for a month or more at a time (however I cannot tell you if it could damage anything, that car didn't have any fancy keys or anything)

It may be the key itself not working in the tumbler from wear. It may be the interlock assembly. The interlock is multipe pieces (mechanisms and cables) than have to work together. First is the steering wheel lock, second is the tranny shifter park position lock, the park locking pin/pawl in the tranny and even the brake pedal/shifter park lock.

It may be any one of these jamming up or a combination of two or more.

I've had mine jam up tight on a few occasions, it mostly happens when I back up against one of those cement stops at the end of a parking spot, slap the shifter into park with the steering wheel turned one direction or the other.

I slap the shifter forward, jiggle the steering wheel slightly, while slamming my foot down on the brake pedal and jiggling the key in the tumbler with moderate force. I kind of resemble some guy with a mouse in his shorts.

It sometimes takes some moderate force on the key, enough to break things loose, but not so much you bend the key. One thing you always want to try first is your spare key.

If you ever figure out which interlock cable is causing your issues, you can try bending the cable holder with a hammer a little, Which is really the best way to try and adjust one.

On my Renix I took all the pins out of the tumbler, any old key will work now. And removed all the interlocks and threw them in the scrap metal bin. My Renix is my go to vehicle in case of Zombie attack and I really want it as reliable and idiot proof as possible.

I once had a nick or ding in a parking pin inside the tranny. Somebody had shifted into park while the vehicle was moving and damaged the end of the pin. Took me forever to figure that one out.

Your problem is most likely an interlock adjustment or a severely worn key and/or tumbler. It is also possible to jam up the interlock in certain situations, just by how the steering and drivetrain was loaded up when you parked. Good luck.

Go to your local Jeep dealer with your proof of ownership. Have them give you the key code for your vehicle. If they cut keys great, if not have a locksmith cut one for you, make sure it is all brass and not plastic headed.

This key will be essentially factory new, and better than any other key you may have. Lubricate the lock with a greaseless lubricant like Tri Flow or LPS. Remove the shroud covering the lower portion of the steering column. Try turning the key while holding the steering wheel all the way right and all the way left. If it still does not turn, continue holding the wheel left then right, but tap on the key with the plastic head of a screwdriver.

If it turns at any point, immediately depress the detent and remove the lock. Then, have your local locksmith key a new ignition to the key code you obtained from the dealer, install it. and you are good to go.

I have tried everything suggested with no luck, even went to the dealership and had them cut me a brand new key.

I can't turn the key, can't turn the wheel, can't move the shifter and can't move the car. I'm stuck. At this point, I'm going to be calling AAA tomorrow morning and have it towed to a local shop. I'm ready to take a bat to the thing, this is so frustrating.

I feel like if I could get the steering wheel unlocked, I could figure out the ignition myself. The combination of ignition and locked wheel is killing me.

Any final suggestions before dumping money into it?

Well, depending on the cost of a tow in your area I would recommend you call a locksmith and see what they charge for a service call.

Not sure if this will do anything, but try disconnecting the negative battery cable.

It sounds like your ignition switch is the problem. Mine is located at the base of the steering column, at around the 1:30 position, but it's a 1990 so yours might be different.

Mine became fused, and I had exactly the same symptoms. Don't hit the key, don't overtorque the cylinder, just remove the ignition switch and take a look at it.

Have a locksmith come out and replace the lock, make sure they key it to your original key. Should cost around $160, maybe more if they have to drill it. I would not waste the $ on a tow. Mechanic shops rarely get this kind of thing right.

Does the steering wheel move freely? I know it is locked but does it move freely against the lock? If it is bound against the lock pawl, it will be hard to turn the key and switch.
If the cylinder is also worn, it will be that much harder to get it to turn. Before proceeding, ensure the steering is not bound against the lock.

I have found that with the Chrysler ignition tumblers that quit working, the thing to do is to flood the cylinder with a lubricant like PB blaster (have rags handy if you fancy your carpet). Insert the key, and take a small hammer and very lightly tap the end of the key into the cylinder. Then, pull the key out a FRACTION of a mm.. gently jiggle and try to turn at the same time. The penetrate softens dried grease and tapping with the hammer can jar a stuck tumbler back into place after the key pushed it's way through.
Sometimes it turns right away and sometimes it takes 10 mins but it always turns.

When you get it to turn, remove the cylinder by pushing a longish and skinny screwdriver, a long reach allen key, or something similar up into the little hole in the bottom of the lower steering wheel cover and pressing up. You should be able to feel some springy resistance to your push once you have found the pawl that holds the lock cyl in. Press up on the pawl and pull out on the key/cyl.

Slide the new cylinder you got from your local parts store in, and be happy that you now have reverted back to 1989 when you needed 2 keys to unlock and start your car.

I know if my steering lock locks the wheel I have to turn the wheel a bit to take the pressure off of the lock before I can turn the key.