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A cylinder head removal questions

I

IGeeky1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
So I'm getting going on this and was wondering...

Concerning the A/C Compressor. I have removed the two bolts going into the cylinder head. Do I need to do more?

Concerning the lower bolts to the manifold. OK, assuming I do get them all broken loose, how in the heck do you get a torque wrench in there to tighten them back up? I seem to barely maneuver with a box wrench or a 3/8 socket wrench in there.
 
Ok--leave the intake and exhaust manifolds ATTACHED to the head and remove it that way from the engine.

Remove the intake/exhaust manifolds with the head on a bench/floor.

Reattach the intake/exhaust manifolds with the head on a bench/floor.

Reinstall the head with the manifolds attached.

NOTE: if you don't have an engine lift, you will need a couple of helpers to lift it off and reset it back on.
 
In 35 years the only I used a torque wrench on was head bolts and wheel bearing nuts.
 
Interesting... I guess I find which wants to cooperate the most the exhaust to manifold coupler bolts or the manifold to head bolts :)

I thought (from things I've read on forums) that manifold torque was pretty important to have a good even non-intake-air-sucking, exhaust-manifold-cracking seal? Not so? Can do by feel?
 
Last edited:
with some aftermarket manifolds (like my pacesetter) you cant even get a torque wrench in there, and barely an open ended wrench, when its on the rig, so sometimes you have no choice.
 
Torque wrench is useful for a newbie, keeps them from busting bolts off in the block, head...etc. My arm has a 35 year calibration cert, :spin1: LOL.
 
Ecomike said:
Torque wrench is useful for a newbie, keeps them from busting bolts off in the block, head...etc. My arm has a 35 year calibration cert, :spin1: LOL.
Click to expand...

It'd be interesting to check the arm vs. the torque wrench theory. I know I'm pretty close to dead on with my torqueing without a good torque wrench, but my arm is getting old. I'm not...just my arm.
 
to be fair you have to torque in the weird "I can barely get my wrench" on it position too. Then try to approximate with same wrench and position on a bolt you can reach with the torque wrench. Finally measure on reachable bolt with torque wrench and see if you are in ballpark.

I know I would fail...unless of course the most i could do with given wrench in given position happened to be the desired torque. I like luck it is much easier than good.
 
Last edited:
joe_peters said:
Ok--leave the intake and exhaust manifolds ATTACHED to the head and remove it that way from the engine.

Remove the intake/exhaust manifolds with the head on a bench/floor.

Reattach the intake/exhaust manifolds with the head on a bench/floor.

Reinstall the head with the manifolds attached.

NOTE: if you don't have an engine lift, you will need a couple of helpers to lift it off and reset it back on.
Click to expand...

Joe,

Do you have any photos that shows how to remove the head with all the manifolds attached?

Interested in how to attach a lift sling.
 
I think we bolted a 1/4" thick steel plate the two bolts holes where the AC bracket goes to counter balance it pulling the engine once, so that should work for the head. We lifted / restored the head-manifold assy by hand, 3 of us.
 
Ecomike said:
I think we bolted a 1/4" thick steel plate the two bolts holes where the AC bracket goes to counter balance it pulling the engine once, so that should work for the head. We lifted / restored the head-manifold assy by hand, 3 of us.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate.

Found a good set of pics of the head/manifolds lift on Flikr, posted by freight242. He mentioned 5-90 in one of his pics about a buggered torx head bolt fix.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79431505@N00/sets/72157594336312508/with/2651202035/
 
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