• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

to paint or not to paint?

xeroOTG

xeroOTG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
floater
I recently bought a 98 Sport to replace my 92 Laredo. I kind of want to do everything on this one so that it is a 'sleeper' or is moderately modified. It gets 21-22 on the interstate, and rides quiet and smooth. The trim on it is pathetically oxidized and until I spent a bit on Ebay a bunch was missing.

Heres how I started out:

2012-09-08%252018.23.14.jpg


2012-09-30%252019.01.28.jpg


Heres where I was this morning:

2012-11-03%252009.44.36.jpg


Heres right now, all the trim off:

2012-11-03%252013.08.42.jpg


Heres the newly painted trim:

2012-11-03%252013.08.56.jpg


So the question, Should I leave the trim off?
 
If it's a daily driver...no. I've spent literally YEARS trying to get my MJ back to what it SHOULD look like after the PO hacked it up inside/outside/underneath/wiring. I'd also paint/treat the flares to match.

If it's just a trail rig/weekend warrior...maybe then I'd modify it to fit the conditions and use that it will see.

I would not just strip, jack/hack it up just to look cool. If you EVER plan to sell it, leave the trim on. If the thing is in good running order like you said, leave it stockish....another useful(less) opinion from me.
 
Get the rear flares matching the front is a definite.

Putting the rubber trim back on? I say no, but that is just my stylistic opinion. I really do not like the esthetics of the 1997-2001 rubber trim.
 
I went ahead and put the trim back on, I am still working on the fender flares. I have been removing all the trim to paint it, the rear flare attachment hardware is a bit 'weathered' so we will see what some pb blaster and some time does. maybe next weekend... but the bumper caps are probably last. I don't like it when pieces are painted on the vehicle and you get hard paint lines.

IMAG0680.jpg
 
if you are worried about snapping off the bolts for the rear flares, way back before i just took mine off completely i used a little trick to spruce them up. i was able to flex mine back a bit to fit pieces of cardstock paper behind them to paint them. I too was suspecting the bolts to break off, which almost every one did when i finally removed them.

just a technique i used and thought id share
 
Well I used 3M trim tape to put the trim back on, and its peeling off. I thought the 3M stuff was tougher then nails, but I appear to be wrong... anyone have any ideas? I like how the trim looks painted, I just don't want all my work to fall off while driving down the road.
 
How did you put it on? Small strips? Full strips... did you clean/ degrease/ use rubbing alcohol to clean the mounting surfaces. It should last years. Sounds like possible user error?
 
they have stuff for bringing back the shine on black rubber/plastic trim that works pretty good, much better than paint for longevity. a little late now, but just mentioning it for anyone else looking to spruce up their trim.
 
It is maybe user error? :/ I used full strips, and I cleaned the surface first with paint thinner (as per the body shop that I got the fender painted at, and where I borrowed the pin stripe remover to take off the old adhesive with). Then I went to the car wash and used the foam brush to get the surface clean. Then I used the hot high pressure rinse. I thought that would be pretty good... I can already hear the moaning, "OH NOES! You used a CHEMICAL!" The trim was fairly warped and was peeling before I took it off, so I'm guessing that can have an effect. I just finished reading up on the 3M site that I should have used prep-solvent 70 and hit the surface with rubbing alcohol for best effect. I don't even know where I would get prep-solvent 70. I'm not afraid of doing it over, just wondered if anyone else had experience?
 
rubbing alcohol or acetone works best for prep.
It evaporates and doesn't leave any kind of a film.

Why did you wash it after you prepped it with paint thinner? The prep with solvent is the last thing you should do before yo ustick the trim back on.
How long did you give it to bond? I'm not sure what the temperatures are in NM, but anything less than 60* and it takes about 2 days for the tape to reach full bond strength.
 
xeroOTG said:
It seemed like there was some sort of residue that was still on the body. That's all. I suppose it did freeze last night, could that ruin the bond?
Click to expand...

Absolutely, have you ever wrapped wires in the cold with electrical tape? And you go out an hour later and the tape is unwound. Same deal with the trim adhesive , I have used the strips for emblems, I heated them with a hair dryer and the body as well, stuck them on and used masking tape to hold in place for a while. Just don't really let the tape bake.in the sun or its a pain to get off

Also... the tape COULD??? rip off the paint you just applied to the trim pieces???
 
OK, so at this point do you think it is too late for the tape I used? I am inclined at this point to take the molding off and leave it off. It seems like more trouble then its worth, at least until a warmer month.
 
New tape would be the only way, done as stated above with rubbing alcohol. You may also be able to help bend the trim back straight with some heat too? Dunno for sure, never tried it but its a thought. Being 100% straight would help as opposed to the ends putting an outward pressure on.the tape and starting the peeling process again
 
I took the moldings off mine. All the door dings I got were at the contour line higher up on the door. I don't like gluing parts to cars for the sake of gluing parts to cars.
 
it's really got to be 60* or up before VHB tape sticks like it should. It's very temp dependent. Anything less than 50* and I wouldn't even try it unless I had a heated area to park it in.
 
I will be looking at my cousins garage then. I finally found the guy that gave me the tape, it wasn't 3m, rather Norton. I never saw the original packaging. Do you think the 3m product might be better? If so I will seek some out.
 
I'm not familiar with Norton, but anything I've ever stuck on with VHB tape has pulled the paint off or destroyed the piece when removed.

it sticks, and it sticks pretty permanently.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
Wheel BS and Off-set for 285/75/r16 Tires
Replies
13
Views
3K
RCP Phx
R
R
1992 XJ AW4 doesn't want to shift
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
Rob Mayercik
R
Saudade
1988 XJ or Not?
Replies
9
Views
1K
lawsoncl
L
W
Build thread: daily driven tow rig
4 5 6
Replies
117
Views
10K
Woodswanderer
W
B
Is this the last goodbye? - anyone in UK want a 1993 XJ?
Replies
6
Views
2K
XJI6191
X
Back
Top