New engine won't start, fuel relay noise

First things first: 1995 sport 4.0 AW4

So my engine went out about a year ago and I recently just installed another. After putting everything together the final moment came and it turned over, but would not start. There was a slight sputter initially but after that nothing. I'm not getting any spark but I have fuel and compression. As soon as I turn the ignition on the fuel relay starts clicking, swapping the relay results in the same clicking noise.

The coil, plugs, dist., cap, rotor, coil and wires have very few miles on them so I don't believe any of those to be the cause of lack of spark.
I double checked all my grounds and they seem to be solid as well.

When the ignition is turned on only the brake and seatbelt lights come on the check engine light does nothing, the fuel guage is also pointed all the way to the right, the other guages appear to be working.

Not really sure where to go from here, so any input would be great.
Thanks

Find the relay that is clicking, and find out why it is clicking!!! Also look into the fuel gauge issue, they may be related. Check the fuses too. Look for any damaged wiring harness wires from the engine swap!!!

A low battery can cause the same thing.

Did you get the ground wires hooked up to a clean and shiny dipstick tube stud?

Might be applicable, may not, but on my 96 I had a no start, no spark and the only time the fuel pump relay would close, was for the prime cycle when he key was turned to the run position. I also had no "Check Engine Light".

I noticed when I unhooked my CPS to do an ohm/continuity test, the check engine light came back on (head scratchier). This made me believe I had some sort of short in the CPS causing me grief in the five volt power supply circuit. I actually did a volt test on the five volt power supply with the CPS hooked up and got 2 volts with it connected and five volts (I believe it was five, could have been seven, I forget) with it disconnected. The CPS tested OK by the book, but was still junk. A new CPS cured that problem.

I don't really know why the Check Engine Light went out with the shorted CPS connected, but there was obviously some sort of relationship (wiring?), the light came back on when i disconnected the shorted CPS.

I also had a bad connection in my ASD circuit, which caused about the same symptoms. I don't really know if it affected my Check Engine light or not though. My problem was the connector at the anti theft module, yellow wire in my 96, though anywhere in the ASD circuit, to include the ASD relay and relay socket, could be an issue.