Not the same NSS Rebuild question...

I have done all the searching and have found all the articles about removing, cleaning and reinstalling the NSS, but this left me with one remaining question:

How could the NSS be "sealed" to prevent the same thing happening again?

I know this is a very common repair, what have all you gurus done to prevent from having to do it again in the near future?

HTT


(If this is not in the correct section, MODS please feel free to move to OEM.)

Well, it really can't be sealed as the selector shaft runs through it and there isn't any room for any sort of an oil seal or o-ring. Dielectric grease is about all you can use on the inside to help keep the moisture out.

The NSS repair is just a "normal maintenance" item you need to do every 100,000 miles or so...

Okay, so just packed full is about the best that can happen?

Thanks for the reply.

1) I like to put a smear of RTV black on the mating surfaces of the shell. Not a lot - you don't want it to get inside the thing. I think it's a shade bigger than a pea-sized lump on your finger, smeared over the entire mating surface of one shell.

2) I've had good luck running dielectric grease around the outside of the wiper arm pivot, between it and the case. RTV won't work, because you need it to be able to move. As mentioned, putting an O-ring in there can't happen easily.

3) When you put the NSS back on, before you do, take a wire wheel in a drill motor to the shift shaft. Then, wipe the loose crud and dust off (rag with solvent works well,) let the solvent dry, then paint the shaft with never-seez. Don't get any on the threads!

The collet nut on the shift shaft gets tightened to 62 pound-inches/about five pound-feet, or a little over one flat past finger tight. The adjuster screw up top get 15 pound-feet, and I like to put RTV on the screw threads before it goes on (works as an ersatz LocTite, but allows for later adjustment without having to remove the screw to clean and reapply.)

There's no reason to "pack it full" - and doing so can cause the wiper arm to break (mechanical effort working against hydrostatic pressure - if the pressure doesn't have enough room to relieve itself, it can get really ugly, really fast.)

Got this done yesterday evening. I think this is the first project I have done on the Jeep that has NOT gone south. Everything cleaned up really well, and went back together without issue.

I don't think I have had reverse lights in years. Thanks for the pointers.

HTT