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99 XJ Starting and Stalling Problems

ryguy32789

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Highland, IN
I've done a lot of searching but still haven't been able to nail down my problem. My 99 4.0 Auto XJ ran fine until a couple days ago. It was parked overnight, then wouldn't start.

It will crank and crank without starting, but then when I give it a little gas (not WOT, probably 1/4 to 1/2 throttle) it will sputter to life. Idle is fine, and if I give it a little gas it still runs fine. If I give it a lot of gas it in gear, the truck dies. If I have it in neutral and give it gas, the RPMs will rise just fine, but when I let off the gas the RPMs fall through idle and the truck stalls. I can smell gas from time to time.

At first it threw a code - Camshaft Position Sensor - but then it went away. I tested the CPS with a multimeter and it tested OK. The problem still exists, but with no check engine light.

Where should I go from here? CKP? TPS?
 
been having similar issues with my 99, know your feel bro. you've got a clue with the cam sensor code that i wouldnt ignore. suppose it could be an intermittent fail with that sensor, or maybe a worn out distributor assembly. as is often recomended here, refresh all your grounds and pay attention to the basics like tune up parts and battery connections. couldnt hurt to ohm your coolant temp sensor and iat sensor to rule them out as suspects. while chasing my hard start demon i've found that letting the key stay in run for a spell before starting helps a bit.
 
"Hard start" is putting it lightly. I guess I should say the problem is so bad the truck is not drivable. I don't think it's an intermittent CPS failure either, I left the multimeter hooked up while it was running/dying, and it still was feeding back an oscillating signal as it was dying.
 
1. Your throttle position is suspect. How to test it shown below

2. Your OBD system is pretty good at detecting faults. What was the exact code? Some are for cam sensor, some for crank sensor, some can be either. If you continue to code for a cam sensor, I'd trust that something may be wrong with that sensor or circuit

2. Smelling gas (unless it's flooded) means you have a fuel leak you must track down
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
 
1. Your throttle position is suspect. How to test it shown below

2. Your OBD system is pretty good at detecting faults. What was the exact code? Some are for cam sensor, some for crank sensor, some can be either. If you continue to code for a cam sensor, I'd trust that something may be wrong with that sensor or circuit

2. Smelling gas (unless it's flooded) means you have a fuel leak you must track down
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Thanks for the info, I'll check the TPS next. I don't know the code number off hand, I'll have to see if I can get it, but my scanner said "Camshaft Position Sensor." I'm also pretty sure I don't have a fuel leak, since I only smell fuel after the engine sputters and dies.
 
......It will crank and crank without starting, but then when I give it a little gas (not WOT, probably 1/4 to 1/2 throttle) it will sputter to life.

This is the usual symptoms of low voltage. Test the TPS, test the CPS. The camshaft pickup in the distributor can also be tested.

Low voltage issues:

• leaving the lights on
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• dirty or loose wire connections
• internally corroded wires

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery, the ECU, and the engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
 
Well, it's fixed. I didn't replace anything. The battery had died, so I fully charged it. The problem was still there. Had AutoZone test the battery and it passed. The alternator also appears to be fully workin, it ran fine at idle when I disconnected the battery. So then all I did was test the TPS with a multimeter, which passed the test with flying colors, and the problem was gone.
 
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