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New U-joints have play? Help please.

R

Royal_Highness

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Utah
So After installing my rebuilt drive shafts both axle end joints have play side to side on the yolk end, and not on the shaft end.

Has anyone ran into this?

I read somewhere that I should have replaced my straps but it isn't the caps that are moving. Just the joint inside of the caps. It is like the yolk tabs are to wide? (slightly) I don't know If anyone has some sort of direction on this.

Chrysler 8.25 and dana 30 yolks are OE
 
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Check to make sure the tabs aren't broken off the yoke, the small tabs that hold the cap side to side. It shouldn't be doing what you say it's doing. Make sure you don't need a 1330 joint rather than a 1310, the 1330 is wider.
 
have you tried hard boiling the yolks? They work much better that way.

So the straps are tight, and the joint still isnt piched tightly enough to keep the caps from moving sideways in the yoke? or is the trunnion moving inside of the caps?

If the caps are moving, I would try new straps, they can stretch, yours may have stretched enough they can no longer properly grip the cap
 
The trunnion is moving in the caps the caps are not moving.

Goatman said:
Check to make sure the tabs aren't broken off the yoke, the small tabs that hold the cap side to side. It shouldn't be doing what you say it's doing. Make sure you don't need a 1330 joint rather than a 1310, the 1330 is wider.
Click to expand...

The tabs are there still.

Not sure how to tell if I have a 1310 or a 1330 though
Edit: Looked up the width of the 1330 and It would not fit with the width of 3.622 If I was running a 1310 Right now.
In comparison to the 1310 of a 3.219 width
 
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I ran into a problem once where one of the tabs on the yoke had worn slightly where the tab contacts the cap. This allowed the exact situation you are describing. Unfortunately the only solution was to replace the yoke.

XiKaQV65
 
Update: I Decided to shim the end of the trunnion to make that portion slightly longer edge to edge thus taking up the slack. The rear drive line has no more play in it. now for the front.

I made the shim out of an aluminum can one for each side to center.

DSC00465.jpg


All in all I Do think that the yolk may be slightly out of spec and caused it. Can't see what else It could be.
 
thats a good idea. i may try that on one front axle u joint i have tge same problem with time after time. did you put a hole for the grease to pass through ?
 
That side to side play isn't an issue, most joints will have that. Quality joints like Spicers may limit that. It could be wear on the yoke tabs not sure but sounds like a reasonable theory. As long as its tight on the torque plane it should be fine. I would worry about that aluminum getting ground up and burning out the needle bearings.
 
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I figure Premature wear either way.. But at least it wont have slop.


robsjeepxj said:
That side to side play isn't an issue, most joints will have that. Quality joints like Spicers may limit that.

I would worry about that aluminum getting ground up and burning out the needle bearings.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure that it should not have any play in it at all. I have never seen that a u joint should have any movement without requiring replacement.

I figure by greasing the joint more often, It shouldn't be a problem.
 
OFF TOPIC.., sort of, lol. Hey, your camera takes great pictures, so me of the best I've seen for really showing sharp details. Can you provide the make and model number of your camera please? Thanks.
 
There was a product out there called the T.U.R.D. (titanium u-joint retention device) that may help if your yoke is a little sloppy.

Old thread

It give the cup a second contact point to help hold it in place. I'm not sure if they're still being made, but I like the name :)
 
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