how to tell if is the crank or cam sensor that is not working?

95 sport, 4.0 auto np242
So my heap was cutting out when it was hot, it has 200,000K on it is 17 years old So I thought, I would replace both the sensors, ran fine for a month. then it started cuttiing out when hot, then when cold as well now just will not start. took about 2 days, So i'm thinking that one of the new sensors is a dud.
Replaced the cam sensor (with the old- room temp- sensor) still no start. So I belive the crank sensor is the problem. Cam sensor was airtexwells brand, crank sensor was standard brand.

what I was wondering is is there some sort of definitive side of the road test that will tell you if it is one sensor of the other?
For example: "if you can hear the fuel pump then XXXX sensor is ok."

Any input appreciated.

Crank sensors can be electrically tested, but testing is not always conclusive. No definitive answer. And they often don't set a check engine light or a code.

There is no lack of issues with some (not all) aftermarket crankshaft position sensors.

Because of that, I will only use and recommend the Mopar crank sensor purchased from a Jeep dealer. Well worth the few extra bucks you spend for reliability and longevity.

Testing can usually indicate a failed sensor, but not a failing or thermally sensitive sensor.

Sensors are part of your routine maintenance and every Cherokee will require a new CPS at some point in it's life. Typical service life of the CPS is about 150,000 miles or so.

Complete diagnostic and test procedures are contained in the Jeep Factory Service Manual. Every Jeep owner should have an FSM. You will save the purchase cost in your first repair.

Numerous recent threads have shown that cheap "lifetime warranty" sensors from Advance/IdiotZone/O'Reilly's can be slightly out of specification (or even faulty) and cause starting and running issues. Replacing them with genuine Jeep parts solved the problems. Cheap parts are cheap for a reason.

CPS testing

TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

TESTING PROCEDURE for 1987 – 1990 4.0 L engines

Test # 1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the CPS and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 – 275 Ohms. . If the CPS is out of that range by much, replace it.

Test # 2 - You'll need a helper for this one. Set the volt/ohm meter to read 0 - 5 AC volts or the closest AC Volts scale your meter has to this range. Measure across the CPS leads for voltage generated as your helper cranks the engine. (The engine can't fire up without the CPS connected but watch for moving parts just the same!) The meter should show .5 - .8 VAC when cranking. (That's between 1/2 and 1 volt AC.) If it's below .5vac, replace it.

Make sure you have fuel pressure. My last Cherokee, a '97, would just die going down the road and then start right back up. Everything I read led me to believe it was the crank position sensor and it ended up being the fuel pump.

It was the MSD "performance" coil. 18 months old. Very disappointed.