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Rear end howl

Ralph

NAXJA Member #149
Location
Lubbock, Texas
I've got a 96 XJ with about 225000 miles on it. 27 spline 8.25 rear end. I've been getting a howling noise from my rear end. I tore into it today looking for worn parts. The axle bearings and shafts look okay. The ring and pinion also look okay. After pulling the shafts I've notice a bit of play in the carrier bearings. Is this normal? Should I be seeing play in the carrier bearings?

Thanks,
 
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My 98 8.25 started howling at 135k. It ended up being the pinion bearings. The axles were fine butI had the carrier bearings replaced as well as the pinion bearings. I'm at 156k now with no problems. When I researched the howl, it appeared to be a very common problem with the 8.25. It sounds to me like yours has gone further than most.
 
I have a 2000XJ, 29 spline, 216K and mine has been howling for a long time...not terrible, but noticeable. However; when I put my Aussie Locker in, I went ahead and changed the axle bearings since I was already in there. The howl did not completely go away, but it is much quieter than it was...maybe 50% if I had to guess?
 
In my experience with the 8.25 is that from the factory the carrier bearing adjuster cups are not tight enough causing to little of pre-load on the carrier bearings. This allows some play in the bearings which in turn leads to pre-mature bearing failure.

When I set-up 8.25's I try to hit at least 100ftlbs on each side and a little more will not hurt. You will hear some noise after a fresh set-up but it will go away and run quiet for a good long while.

I have yet to find a torque spec on the adjuster cups but I have seeked advice from other experienced diff guys and we have come to the conclusion that you really cant have too much carrier bearing pre-load on the 8.25 but you can have too little.
 
Is this something I can do or do I need to take this to someone who knows how to set up differentials? I obviously don't have that skill set.
 
CHEAPEST thing you could probably do is, CL or JY Axle, and swap them. This means you can upgrade to a 29-spline EASY. Or D44, etc.
 
I have yet to find a torque spec on the adjuster cups but I have seeked advice from other experienced diff guys and we have come to the conclusion that you really cant have too much carrier bearing pre-load on the 8.25 but you can have too little.

My 2000 FSM states 75 ft-lbs for them. But, IIRC, I have seen around 100 ft-lbs from gear companies.
 
From what I'm reading, it doesn't seem like I should be seeing any play in the carrier bearings. The installation manual from Yukon Gear says 150 - 200 pounds/feet of preload after which backlash needs to be re-checked as well as wear pattern. A buddy of mine knows a guy who is very good at setting up gears. I think I'll take the axle in to him and have him check things out and re-setup the gears.

Thanks for your help,
RR3
 
From what I'm reading, it doesn't seem like I should be seeing any play in the carrier bearings. The installation manual from Yukon Gear says 150 - 200 pounds/feet of preload

That is how much torque it takes to begin crushing the crush sleeve! Pinion bearing pre-load is around 16-30(off the top of my head, would have to look up the spec) INCH POUNDS of torque. This is read by turning the pinion with a beam style inch pound torque wrench without the ring gear installed.

The carrier bearings are pre-loaded at 75ftlbs(FSM) 100ftlbs for me!
 
If you are not touching the pinion bearings you can do the carrier bearings yourself, you will need a dial indicator and gear marking compound. Take pattern before touching it at all, check backlash before touching it as well... then replace the bearings and duplicate the original pattern and backlash as closely as you can, hope for the best. If your pinion bearings are shot too all bets are off, you'd probably best take it to a diff specialist, especially if it's been like that for a while and could have worn funny once the bearings went bad.
 
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