• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Tapping 0630 head for renix temp sensor?

obaa-xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PNW
For my '90 stroker build, I want to swap in HO head and have it work with the Renix controls. I found a good deal on a 0630 head, but my understanding is that it is missing a port for the temp coolant sensor. Is it possible to tap my own temp sensor port, or am I better off waiting and looking for a 7120 head? Thanks!
 
the newer engines had a sensor bung on the T-stat housing... you could just relocate the sensor to that location (might take a couple adapters from the hardware store)
 
For my '90 stroker build, I want to swap in HO head and have it work with the Renix controls. I found a good deal on a 0630 head, but my understanding is that it is missing a port for the temp coolant sensor. Is it possible to tap my own temp sensor port, or am I better off waiting and looking for a 7120 head? Thanks!

the newer engines had a sensor bung on the T-stat housing... you could just relocate the sensor to that location (might take a couple adapters from the hardware store)

Use the newer t-state housing (already threaded), extend the existing one wire plug and install the sender in t-stat housing.
 
For my '90 stroker build, I want to swap in HO head and have it work with the Renix controls. I found a good deal on a 0630 head, but my understanding is that it is missing a port for the temp coolant sensor. Is it possible to tap my own temp sensor port, or am I better off waiting and looking for a 7120 head? Thanks!

Look for a dressed flat spot in the same area - I think the 0630 head has that.

Drill and tap 1/8"NPT.

Problem solved.

Yes, the later t-stat housing is D&T 3/8"NPT, but the advantage to having it at the rear of the head is that you're reading from about the hottest point in the cooling system, so you'll catch overheats more quickly. Besides, I don't know offhand if the RENIX temperature sensor that drives the gage follows the standard GM thermistor curve (it would be logical that it does, but I haven't yet confirmed this. Haven't had to so far...)
 
Thanks for the advice. I've had bad luck splicing harnesses before, so I'd rather tap a new port and re-use the known good working harness than to hack it up.
I don't have my hands on the head yet, but is it safe to say that I either look for the for the mounting boss on the head, or find the corresponding spot based on my stock '90 head, and then simply carefully drill through until I reach a water jacket and tap to 1/8" NPT?
 
^ this

Instead of using this
bleeding-machete.jpg


USe these
images
 
My 1/96 0630 still uses the rear temp sender location for the dash. I have seen other 0630s that have the threaded section capped from the factory and others that don't have it tapped at all.
 
Thanks for the advice. I've had bad luck splicing harnesses before, so I'd rather tap a new port and re-use the known good working harness than to hack it up.
I don't have my hands on the head yet, but is it safe to say that I either look for the for the mounting boss on the head, or find the corresponding spot based on my stock '90 head, and then simply carefully drill through until I reach a water jacket and tap to 1/8" NPT?

Essentially. I think a number of #0630 heads had the boss in place and ground - it's just hit-or-miss on whether it's been drilled & tapped.

Bear in mind that standard pipe threads are tapered, so back the tap out and check your threads at relatively frequent intervals. It's entirely possible to tap too far, and you'll end up either not being able to torque the threads to seal them, or not having the threads mesh at all in the first place!

When installing the sensor, PTFE paste is not indicated - the sensor is self-grounding, and I've noted that PTFE will interfere with that. Use RTV copper, it's got actual copper in and self-grounding sensors (in my experience) still work with this stuff on the threads.

Or, use never-seez (which typically has a metal base,) and tighten to two flats past finger tight. Check for leaks after a day's service or so, and tighten one additional flat if need be.

Why? If you've heard anywhere near as many stories of this thing breaking when removal is attempted, you wouldn't ask...
 
Back
Top