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Renix, aftermarket in line fuses, AC blower wiring issues

Ecomike

NAXJA# 2091
NAXJA Member
Location
MilkyWay Galaxy
I rewired and bypassed the notorious brown wire to my ignition switch on my 87 about 4-5 years ago, rerouting the power from it that runs to the WSWipers, Radio, AC Blower, E-windows, e-seat, and who knows what else (rear window defroster?), I routed it to a 30 amp dash switch, and ran new 10 Ga wires to replace the OEM 12 (or 14 ga?) junk. I also replaced the blower motor, fan speed switch, resistor-diode pack on the blower circuit.... and all but the E-windows has worked fine since then. AC also works, was all upgraded, new. Been years now since I had any problems there.

The fuse was 25 (or 30-?) amp, and the fuse holder wire was 12 ga, all after market standard parts (the fuse and holder were matched, bought as one par assy)

This last week I noticed a strange aromatic odor. Finally it turned to smoke, and I located the problem. The fuse holder is/was over heating and melted, and smoked!!! The fuse is still good!!!

Thoughts???? I am wondering if it is the fuse holder that went bad, too much current too long, and poor fuse holder design, something overloading and pulling too much power, but then why has the fuse not blown???? The 30 amp switch seems to be OK. The hot spot was at the fuse!!!
I am considering switching to a 40 amp, heavier duty style fuse. I found one that is self resetting, and another with nice large flat copper flats for connections.
 
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I used a metal cased 30 amp automatic resetting fuse with the 1/4" threaded posts. Ran it yesterday with no problems. Seems the 12 gauge wire, sealed 25 amp fuse assy's have a problem with the fuse melting and not blowing. I have had this problem before with this style fuse/fuse holder. Hope this alternate works better. I got rid of the 12 gauge wire too, all 10 Gauge now.

Here is the one (or similar brand) to what I used:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA
 
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