replacement higher performance auxillary fan

I looking to replace my stock auxiliary e-fan with one with some balls. some SERIOUS balls. As part of my cooling system upgrade (csf 3 row, gen right hood vents, and b&m supercooler) I want to have a fan i can override and switch at will.

Anyone switched to a better performing aux fan while keeping the mechanical fan?

Actually. the 97+ curved blade fan is very efficient.

I run a three row CSF with the factory Aux and a Ford Taurus two speed replacing the mechanical. I have the Ford unit mounted inside of the mechanical fan shroud. One thing I did find was that moving my aux trans cooler out from in front of the radiator gave me a 5 degree F overall drop in engine temperature. Wiring wise, the Ford fan is running on low as long as the ignition is on The relay is triggered by the dark blue with white tracer signal). The Ford fan shifts to high when my electric water pump controller calls for fan (93 degrees C (199.4 F)) and I have the factory fan wired through a SPST relay. Once the EWP115 controller calls for fan, it shifts two relays, one shifts control of the Aux fan away from the PCM and drives it the other shifts the Ford fan up to high speed.

My engine temps ran between 195F and 201F all this summer. To be fair, I also have 72 square inches of hood vent as well. Venting the hood was the last piece in the puzzle for me. They allow a bit more air to run across the radiator by relieving the under hood pressure as well as directly venting the heat from the engine itself. Why those vents? They are what I found in the local Pull & Pay... $15.00. Come to think of it, that is what the Ford fan cost as well.

If you want the most possible airflow, go with a 10" SPAL fan. I don't know the CFM but these fans move more air than any fan I have ever seen.

I was looking at the 11" spal. It appears to be a fairly serious fan. I wonder if i would have to retain the stock efan shroud?

3 > 2 :thumbup:



http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/featured/xj-–-electric-fan-conversion-kit/

xj^REMY said:

3 > 2 :thumbup:



http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/featured/xj-–-electric-fan-conversion-kit/

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not always. i was ready to pick this kit up until i was codriving with vetteboy in a few east coast races and i wasn't too impressed.

My 4.0 would never get above 200º while wheeling no matter what, including a solid 4 minutes of 3k+ RPMs.

Stock mech fan/clutch
CSF 3 row
Stock aux fan (97+)
Stant 195º tstat
Flowkooler pump

This is with an NP435 though (no trans cooler). Though I did run a decent sized PS cooler in front of the radiator (no condenser).

MoparManiac said:

My 4.0 would never get above 200º while wheeling no matter what, including a solid 4 minutes of 3k+ RPMs.

Stock mech fan/clutch
CSF 3 row
Stock aux fan (97+)
Stant 195º tstat
Flowkooler pump

This is with an NP435 though (no trans cooler). Though I did run a decent sized PS cooler in front of the radiator (no condenser).

Click to expand...

That is the key right there to keeping high temperatures at bay.

XJLI said:

not always. i was ready to pick this kit up until i was codriving with vetteboy in a few east coast races and i wasn't too impressed.

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why's that?... what other cooling components did he have/not have?... other factors should be considered... this kit, per his site, puts out an average CFM of 4,336 CFM... & yes mech fan by it self puts out >4k (but it is a MPG/HP parasite) & stock electric fan <2k... shouldnt be much difference in CFM's, other than less rotating mass on the belt drive

MoparManiac said:

My 4.0 would never get above 200º while wheeling no matter what, including a solid 4 minutes of 3k+ RPMs.

Stock mech fan/clutch
CSF 3 row
Stock aux fan (97+)
Stant 195º tstat
Flowkooler pump

This is with an NP435 though (no trans cooler). Though I did run a decent sized PS cooler in front of the radiator (no condenser).

Click to expand...

what he's trying to say, is that while he isn't running an AW4 & no trans cooler, there's still a cooler, limiting airflow, in front of the radiator

huge factor is the 3 row... would also consider how clean the cooling ducts/system is... a dirty/corroded system obstructs flow & inhibits coolant heat absorption & radiator dissipation

techno1154 said:

That is the key right there to keeping high temperatures at bay.

Click to expand...

I have a trans cooler, use the stock trans cooler, have the stock condensor and have never had a cooling issue. Stock or the CSF 3 row, stock fans on the 94 as well. The stock cooling is plenty good as long as its kept up with.

My PS cooler sits at the bottom of the grill opening on the Drivers side of the radiator. That cooler blocks very little air it is a Ford Factory unit off a F350. Fins are relatively far apart compared to the stacked plate unit I use for the transmission.

xj^REMY said:

why's that?... what other cooling components did he have/not have?... other factors should be considered... this kit, per his site, puts out an average CFM of 4,336 CFM... & yes mech fan by it self puts out >4k (but it is a MPG/HP parasite) & stock electric fan <2k... shouldnt be much difference in CFM's, other than less rotating mass on the belt drive

Click to expand...

4.6L stroker, no condensor, nv4500 (no tranny cooler)

The electric advantage is that you have the maximum air flow on command. It is not engine speed/temperature controlled.

As for not having A/C or an auto, yup, big advantage on the cooling front for the obvious reasons. That being said, there are two factory radiators. With and without A/C. Thicker core on the A/C version to make up for the condensor blocking the air flow.