Who has broken the welded nut removing a shackle?

Driver side came off good, both bolts. Blasted them for 4 days prior. Pass side lower came off but the upper is really hard to spin. I can turn it , but its really hard. Its turned like 20 times but still flush against frame? If the nut inside broke wouldn't it spin easily ? IF it did brake, what do I do? thanks

Remove the rear bumper and cut open an access hole inside the framerail. The bolt sticks thru into the rail, you can slip a socket onto the nut and remove it that way.

It probably still turns hard because the bolt gets seized to the metal sleeve inside the bushing. So you may have to turn the nut off then cut the bolt on both sides of the shackle to get it out.:shocked:

try to clean the exposed threads as best possible with a wire toothbrush, hose is down with penetrant again. and get a buddy to put pressure on the bolt inside the framerail to help it want to come out

Heat it up and they come out like butter

Broke one years ago on an 89, can't honestly tell you what I did, other than say LOTS of bad words in a very long tirade of profanity

Broke on my '89. I broke the weld nut off in the frame, and I had no way of fixing it the right way at the time.

Lucky/Unlucky for me the spring eye had unwrapped and I was able to get the bolt driven into the frame pocket. I then drove an insane distance with the bolt held in only by weight placing the spring in tension.

once I was able to get a hole cut in the floor I was able to fix it right.

Oh, yeah that spurred the old brain cells, I cut a hole in the other side of the frame rail, put a socket on a short extension to hit the nut...

Is the idea to re weld a nut on the frame, or just use the same method if you have to access the nut again ?

On '89, PB Blasted every other day for a month to replace spring leaf packs.., then; driver's side, rear upper shackle bolt.., lol!! Well, I could not turn it even with a sm. cheater bar. A big boy got on it with a 4 ft. cheater pipe, and promptly twisted the bolt in two, i.e., leaving only a fragment flush to where it threads into XJ. Hmmm.., so drilled a hole into it, and tried an 'easy out'. No soap. Tried torching it, again with 'easy out', no soap. Had to do what Foxwar71 did, although I cut just 3 sides, bent it away, thus allowing to replace the remaining metal, by bending back into place. Was a big waste of time drilling, easyouting, torching etc., given how badly rusted the threads were. Ended up using a nut extractor. Such as:http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-394001-Bolt-Grip-Extractor/dp/B0000CCXVZ