for everyone out there with a 242, who has installed a sye? and where did you find it/ what brand is it? i'm searching out options and *obviously* there are not a ton of products out there. any help would be much appreciated! quick side note so i don't have to do this later -- no, i'm not going to pull it and get a 231, no i can't spend every last paycheck to save for an atlas, i'm tyring to make what i have work, this is not a $25,000 jeep, it's my dd/ww, maybe when i win the lotto
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242 sye ??'s
- Thread starter xjpirate
- Start date
ruger81
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Battle Ground WA
Use the search tool... you will find what you need
scottmcneal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- not here
Welcome to
.I see this was you FIRST post
I know how you feel with the money thing.Try looking at or sponsors on here for you needs,i would start with this man.He is good..
http://www.rwkhaussupply.com/magento/
Again welcome to
:cheers:
- Location
- Southern Maryland
clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
not to many SYE options out there, most for a 242 are hackntaps, I think the only one would be tomwoods as mentioned. I have a 242 and the plan is to go for the Ironrock kit with the refurbed front shaft
bwinter1946
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Madera, California
IMHO it depends on which 242 case you have. If you have a late model 242 then I would use the Tom Woods kit. If you have an early model a hack and tap would work.
The Tom Woods SYE is a re-machined 242 output shaft. The late model 242s (96+) have a longer output shaft than the early model 242s. If you are running an early 242 then the H&T is a good option.
I installed the Tom Woods (TW) kit in my 1999 242 case. In my opinion, the TW kit is the only way to go for the late model 242 case. The output shaft is shorter after TW modifies it.
FYI, the Tom Woods machined shaft is a stock shaft that is machined but it is not fair to call it a hack and tap IMHO. The TW shaft is shorter than a do it yourself hack and tap. He machines the splines further up the shaft than the shaft originally came with. That gives you a shorter output shaft which gives you a better angle to the rear end. In addition, the output bearing is closer to the output yoke for better support.
See the attached PIC for comparison
The install is not that difficult. I did it in my garage by myself and left the T case in place. The lift was on and I had plenty of room. Instructions are good but a good set of external snap ring pliers with the flat tips are a MUST. I was slow and did it in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part was installing the back case half holding the case, pump and pump suction tube in place without getting sealant all over myself. Good sealant is highly recommended. I used some stuff I got at Napa and no leaks. It is called the "Right Stuff".
Then when you are done you will have a yoke output instead of a flange output with the H&T.
The TW kits is more expensive because it is more parts and machine work. It also includes a TW CV drive shaft. There is also a $400 core charge on your original 242 output shaft. Once he checks your output shaft and it is not bent you will get a credit of $400 back from TW.
The Tom Woods SYE is a re-machined 242 output shaft. The late model 242s (96+) have a longer output shaft than the early model 242s. If you are running an early 242 then the H&T is a good option.
I installed the Tom Woods (TW) kit in my 1999 242 case. In my opinion, the TW kit is the only way to go for the late model 242 case. The output shaft is shorter after TW modifies it.
FYI, the Tom Woods machined shaft is a stock shaft that is machined but it is not fair to call it a hack and tap IMHO. The TW shaft is shorter than a do it yourself hack and tap. He machines the splines further up the shaft than the shaft originally came with. That gives you a shorter output shaft which gives you a better angle to the rear end. In addition, the output bearing is closer to the output yoke for better support.
See the attached PIC for comparison
The install is not that difficult. I did it in my garage by myself and left the T case in place. The lift was on and I had plenty of room. Instructions are good but a good set of external snap ring pliers with the flat tips are a MUST. I was slow and did it in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part was installing the back case half holding the case, pump and pump suction tube in place without getting sealant all over myself. Good sealant is highly recommended. I used some stuff I got at Napa and no leaks. It is called the "Right Stuff".
Then when you are done you will have a yoke output instead of a flange output with the H&T.
The TW kits is more expensive because it is more parts and machine work. It also includes a TW CV drive shaft. There is also a $400 core charge on your original 242 output shaft. Once he checks your output shaft and it is not bent you will get a credit of $400 back from TW.
ericfx1984
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City Area
just remember to drill slowly and use cutting oil (if you don;t have cutting oil you can always use motor oil, it's not as good but it does work)
2stix
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- fallbrook Ca.
bwinter1946 nailed it. with a late model (23 spline) the Tom Woods would be the best choice. but if you have the early model (21 spline) like i do, then i think the H&T from Dirt Bound Offroad is the best choice. mainly because it uses the yoke instead of the flange, which you then need to attach a yoke to anyhow. i purchased the Dirt Bound version and it looks like a good product, but have yet to install it. i did not however look into replacing the early style shaft with a late model, or if it is possible. if it is, i would prefer the Tom Woods (re-machined) shaft for reasons stated by bwinter1946. though i feel the TW is overpriced. especially the gamble. $400 core charge for a tail shaft? really?
