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Transmission Issues

winchster

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
I have a '94 with the AW4 and it has recently started having a few issues.
  1. Seemingly loss of engine power - think this might be cat
  2. Refuses to shift from third to fourth unless you drive it like a manual

I have searched and found tons of suggestions, but not a comprehensive list of what to diagnose. TPS? Solenoids? TCU?

Fluid level is normal, not burnt, and clean.

Would the catalytic converter being jacked cause enough engine power loss to affect the transmission shifting?

I noticed tonight that the speed sensor wires are exposed at the plug and covered with oil. Will a short there create a shift problem?

It is currently 2wd and I have done all the conversion except the transmission and transfer case, is it worth diagnosing or just change the transmission anyway? (Since the 4wd unit was functional when pulled.) I kinda want to find the problem in case it is something outside the transmission itself.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
Edit: the cruise also stopped working. Not sure they are related. No CEL at all. The trans will shift if I let off the gas then give it gas again. That's what I meant about manual.
 
Start with testing the throttle position sensor. It is the most suspect here. If needed, they aren't particularly expensive to replace. Here is more...

The cruise control issues is most likely not related to your transmission shifting problem.
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

 Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
 High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
 Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
 Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
 Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
 
The cruise is most likely not related at all. Your system as a little simpler and will not have the clockspring and such to fail. This could mean your cruise actuator failed or the wiring between the controller, ECU and cruise actuator is bad, I would try just replacing the actuator with a junkyard unit first, and if that doesn't work maybe the switch followed by busting out the FSM and multimeter.
 
Ok thanks for the replies. I didn't figure the cruise and shift were related but who knows. I will remove the cat, and test the TPS tonight and go from there.
 
Ok thanks for the replies. I didn't figure the cruise and shift were related but who knows. I will remove the cat, and test the TPS tonight and go from there.

You can easily test for a clogged cat or any exhaust restriction with a vacuum gauge. SEARCH on the web for how to do this. Don't have to remove the cat for this.
 
TPS closed = .7 volts DC
TPS W.O.T = 3.69 volts DC
Same reading with existing and new TPS

See results from TCU test below.
 
Last edited:
testresult.jpg


These are my test results from testing the TCU. The Brake result is off, the Neutral Switch reads nothing in D but reads battery voltage in 3. The Power/Comfort? What the heck is that? The TPS voltage wire is not here on this model. The voltage comes from somewhere else. Any suggestions comments on the results would be appreciated.
 
Start with testing the throttle position sensor. It is the most suspect here. If needed, they aren't particularly expensive to replace. Here is more...

The cruise control issues is most likely not related to your transmission shifting problem.

The cruise is most likely not related at all.

For what it's worth guys, would you believe they are precisely related. When the stop light switch is bad, the TCU and the cruise both believe the brake is being pushed. Brake light switch solved that problem.

Solution turned out to be quite simple. Brake light switch and cut the cat off and this thing runs like a scalded cat.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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