ABS removal, How do I take it all out.

On my 99 XJ I have an 8.8 swap in progress and I did not install the tone ring in the rearend so there will never be a chance of ABS with this set up. I also Expect to swap front ends or build a non-ABS front end in the future. I have read up on how to disable the ABS but it seems to me that if it doesn't function I should remove the system and make use of the space that is taken up by the control module etc. What steps are necessary to remove this set up and what if anything needs to be modified or replaced to have functioning brakes? Will I get error codes if the system is missing?

MightyThor said:

On my 99 XJ I have an 8.8 swap in progress and I did not install the tone ring in the rearend so there will never be a chance of ABS with this set up. I also Expect to swap front ends or build a non-ABS front end in the future. I have read up on how to disable the ABS but it seems to me that if it doesn't function I should remove the system and make use of the space that is taken up by the control module etc. What steps are necessary to remove this set up and what if anything needs to be modified or replaced to have functioning brakes?

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Replace the master cylinder with a non-ABS one. My recollection is that the pedal assemblies, booster, etc. are the same in that year, but someone will correct me if I'm wrong on that. I believe that the brake lines can be reattached to the manual master cylinder, but may require bending to fit.

Will I get error codes if the system is missing?

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Nope, provided you also pull the fuses & relay when done.

Having said the above, I've been running with both ABS fuses and the relay pulled for over four years and have no ill effects from doing so. Yeah, the space the ABS hardware takes up under the hood might be useful to have back - but that depends on what you're thinking of putting there. Otherwise it seems like a lot of work to go to when 30 seconds in the PDC has the same overall effect.

On a 97+ the booster and master are the same with or without ABS, fortunately. I believe there are differences on 95/96 and I know there are on 92-94 (single diaphragm but good ABS setup) and 84-91 (single diaphragm and deathtrap ABS setup.)

I wouldn't bother pulling the ABS controller on a 99 unless I already had the brake lines open for another reason (like while you're installing those upgraded axles), I hate bleeding brakes.

As for saved space - could make installing a homebuilt snorkel easier I guess, or make it possible to install a second washer fluid tank on a desert racer.

kastein said:

As for saved space - could make installing a homebuilt snorkel easier I guess, or make it possible to install a second washer fluid tank on a desert racer.

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There are a couple of folks who have put smaller electric air compressors in that space; I briefly considered doing this with mine, but weighing up the effort of going to fully-manual brakes against just pulling the compressor out of the trail box when needed wasn't really worth it.

See here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=940577&highlight=abs%2A+pump+removal

kastein said:

... install a second washer fluid tank on a desert racer.

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for what, a cool misting breeze if it gets too hot? Most race rigs don't have windshields Maybe on a mud whomper but even on a prerunner in the dust if you wet it it gets worse, you'll just attract more dust to congeal right in front of your face on the windshield.

Point taken. Someone asked a while ago about how many tanks could be fit in an XJ (3 different stock locations, can use em all) and it was for a go-fast rig, so I assumed. Knew that'd get me into trouble :anon:

maybe for water-methanol injection? same effect can be achieved with cold weather washer fluid and the proper atomizing nozzle.