? about swaping in hp 44

Im hoping some of you can help me out. Im wanting to put fullwidth hp44/60 out of a 78 f250 under my xj. Ive read and searched, but most of the post I find are about swapping f100 or waggy 44s. I already have the 44/60 and Im planning on running the T&T truss, and maybe upgrading my short arms to the rcx long arm kit. What are you guys doing about the steering, I know I need to run crossover, but where do i buy it, or do you guys just making your own? Will my drop pitman arm work? I imagine im going to need to drill and tap my knuckle and run a high steer arm, but im not sure on this. also what needs to be done with the factory cast spring pad?? Any info on doing this swap is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Brad

there are a lot people running these.
steering- have to make it
pitman- yes if you have to. draglink/trackbar angles have to match up as close as possible
drill/tap- might have one done already, so if doing full highsteer then the other needs drilled/tapped
most people have to cut the spring pad off to fit the coil bucket

What I plan on doing...

Parts mike high steer arms (5.5") using Chevy outer knuckles.

Waggy pitman arm (5.5"). (If you plan on running high steer your dropped one will drop it too much. And the length of the pitman arm, from center-of-hole to center-of-hole, needs to match the length of the steering arms from center-of-hole to center-of-hole. Or steering radius will increase.)

And to top it off ill be using the ballistic fab steering kit with Chevy tie rod ends. In the inverted-t flavor as opposed to full cross over. ( or depending on price difference, buy the tie rod ends and steel from a local store and just buy the threaded inserts from ballistic.)

Your track bar will really depend on if you run high steer, otk, or utk. I would buy the tnt truss without a track bar mount, and once you get your steering all set up, weld a properly sized track bar mount to the tnt truss.

Sorry, can't help you with the cast suspension stuff other than maybe try and find one with the welded on gear. Then just chop it off.

brad3xx said:

Im hoping some of you can help me out. Im wanting to put fullwidth hp44/60 out of a 78 f250 under my xj. Ive read and searched, but most of the post I find are about swapping f100 or waggy 44s. I already have the 44/60 and Im planning on running the T&T truss, and maybe upgrading my short arms to the rcx long arm kit. What are you guys doing about the steering, I know I need to run crossover, but where do i buy it, or do you guys just making your own? Will my drop pitman arm work? I imagine im going to need to drill and tap my knuckle and run a high steer arm, but im not sure on this. also what needs to be done with the factory cast spring pad?? Any info on doing this swap is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Brad

Click to expand...

I'm running the same axles, 78 F250 44/60.

There are more pages of info than you really want to read here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-front-dana-44-a-397243/

You don't have to make your own steering, you dont need a drop pitman arm, in fact I used a Wagoneer pitman arm which is almost flat, I cut off the factory leaf spring pad. It's a very doable swap. I did mine 3 or 4 yrs ago still works great.

Thanks for the info, Can I get away without running high steer, Im kinda on a tight budget. could I run a y-link crossover steering in the factory tie rod location, so I woulnt have to buy high steer arms, new pitman arm, and drill and tap my knuckle?
Thanks again

brad3xx said:

Thanks for the info, Can I get away without running high steer, Im kinda on a tight budget. could I run a y-link crossover steering in the factory tie rod location, so I woulnt have to buy high steer arms, new pitman arm, and drill and tap my knuckle?
Thanks again

Click to expand...

I don't see why not, but if you don't run high-steer then you may need the drop pitman arm. What matters is that the drag link and track bar are parallel. The amount of lift in combination with the pitman arm will determine the angle of your drag link, then you have to figure out a axle side track bar bracket that will locate the track bar parallel to the drag link. BTW, this is not really a budget swap, at least it wasn't for me.

...

I may go with the y link crossover in the factory location , so that I can save a little money, I already have a 4.5" lift, so maybe I can reuse the drop pitman arm on there now. What other cost should I factor in, Ill be doing all the work and weldiong myself, but Im sure there are other things I havnt accounted for

brad3xx said:

I may go with the y link crossover in the factory location , so that I can save a little money, I already have a 4.5" lift, so maybe I can reuse the drop pitman arm on there now. What other cost should I factor in, Ill be doing all the work and weldiong myself, but Im sure there are other things I havnt accounted for

Click to expand...

The factory style inverted-y steering is not the best design... if you are going to build custom steering I would go inverted-t or full cross over... factory location is fine if you wanna save money though.

About your drop pitman arm though, I would measure from center of the ball joint to the center of the steering arm hole, just to make sure your xj length pitman arm is long enough. If not, the waggy one is a cheap option and will probably be the length you want. I know I can get one from a junk yard out here for 5 bones.

Other costs?...

Rebuild kit, gears, carrier, gear oil, brake parts, hub rebuild kits, brake fluid, ball joints, control arm bushings, I would throw new u-joints at it, possibly new calipers, the list could go on and on my friend haha. Last I totalled up my 44 swap I estimated around 2,300. With high steer, and a Detroit. But using far cheaper brackets than the tnt truss... that thing is way too expensive if you ask me.

Thanks for all the input. Does anyone know offhand what conversion u-joints Ill need? I think Im going to go with the rcx long arm kit, any input on this kit? it looks pretty nice and its the cheapest kit ive found

brad3xx said:

Thanks for all the input. Does anyone know offhand what conversion u-joints Ill need? I think Im going to go with the rcx long arm kit, any input on this kit? it looks pretty nice and its the cheapest kit ive found

Click to expand...

I think the 44s use the same 760 u-joints... but I'm not sure.

brad3xx said:

Thanks for all the input. Does anyone know offhand what conversion u-joints Ill need? I think Im going to go with the rcx long arm kit, any input on this kit? it looks pretty nice and its the cheapest kit ive found

Click to expand...

The thread I posted above has all the conversion u-joint info you need to get your existing driveshafts connected to the Ford D44/D60.

brad3xx said:

I think Im going to go with the rcx long arm kit, any input on this kit? it looks pretty nice and its the cheapest kit ive found

Click to expand...

Shoot rkates a PM. He's had his about 9 months or so, and keeps having to replace suspension joints. I think he only has a few wheeling trips on it too, the rest is DD. I'm not impressed with the quality at all, and I don't think he is either, especially since he's building his own 3 link now.

hot_rod_hooligans said:

Shoot rkates a PM. He's had his about 9 months or so, and keeps having to replace suspension joints. I think he only has a few wheeling trips on it too, the rest is DD. I'm not impressed with the quality at all, and I don't think he is either, especially since he's building his own 3 link now.

Click to expand...

I thought they had resolved the joint problems. Guess not.

Also, the link you provided is the best write up on swapping in a hp44 I've ever come across. Definitely will be utilizing it when I get around to mine.

here is my specs...http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1030198