can the stock track bar be lengthened for use with a 4" lift?

to me it make sense, I mean as I under stand it as you lift the jeep the angles increase(become more steep) which in turn is the same as making the track bar shorter, which pulls the axle closer to the drivers side... so you could just lengthen it a little bit... right?

I mean a little algebra should pretty much tell you how far to lengthen it right?

you can.

you can also simply drill a new hole on the trackbar mount.

ericfx1984 said:

to me it make sense, I mean as I under stand it as you lift the jeep the angles increase(become more steep) which in turn is the same as making the track bar shorter, which pulls the axle closer to the drivers side... so you could just lengthen it a little bit... right?

I mean a little algebra should pretty much tell you how far to lengthen it right?

Click to expand...

Yeah you could but why not upgrade to a double shear setup?

ktm racer 419 said:

you can.

you can also simply drill a new hole on the trackbar mount.

Click to expand...

This.

For the amount of work that would be involved in modifying the stock one to suit, either redrilling the stock mount or just ordering an adjustable (and possibly a mount, depending on the unit you go for) makes a lot more sense.

so you could just lengthen it a little bit... right?
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Did it that way 10 or so years ago. Much better, stronger, safer ways to do it now.
Would build the bar from scrach before lengthing the marganal stocker. If you just want to do the DIY thing.

badron said:

so you could just lengthen it a little bit... right?

Click to expand...

If you can make welds that won't break. If the track bar fails while you are on the highway, there is a reasonable possibility that you will roll over several times.

Just buy what you need to do the job at hand correctly and safely. Don't be a Bubba......

Tim_MN said:

If you can make welds that won't break. If the track bar fails while you are on the highway, there is a reasonable possibility that you will roll over several times.

Just buy what you need to do the job at hand correctly and safely. Don't be a Bubba......

Click to expand...

lol... I think I can handle a little welding... been doing it for a long time... I also have a buddy that has been a welder/fabricator for close to 10 years (and his father has been doing it for much longer than that... 30+ years)

a few years back I bought a 1995 BMW M3, with lost of suspension and engine work done... only issue was that the rear subframe mounts had ripped out... I welded in some thicker metal and did a little reinforcement and it worked great, I ran it hard for around 1 and a half years until I sold it... the buyer has had it for almost 2 years, no issues yet

in short I think I can handle this

ktm racer 419 said:

you can.

you can also simply drill a new hole on the trackbar mount.

Click to expand...

any info on where to locate the hole? I would guess down and over in toward the middle of the XJ

but how far?

ericfx1984 said:

any info on where to locate the hole? I would guess down and over in toward the middle of the XJ

but how far?

Click to expand...

Depends on the lift. Disconnect the bar, settle suspension so your axle is straight, see where the new hole needs to be by swinging the bar back into place.

I thought about it, then I bought an adjustable bar. Didnt seem worth the hassle not to mention, there isnt alot a material left after you drill one out.

Fixn2xlr8 said:

Depends on the lift. Disconnect the bar, settle suspension so your axle is straight, see where the new hole needs to be by swinging the bar back into place.

I thought about it, then I bought an adjustable bar. Didnt seem worth the hassle not to mention, there isnt alot a material left after you drill one out.

Click to expand...

I was thinking on beefing up a new bracket or fully fabing a new bracket

The stock trackbar doesn't have enough movement in the TRE for any usable flex to warrant the idea.

Depends on the lift. Disconnect the bar, settle suspension so your axle is straight, see where the new hole needs to be by swinging the bar back into place.
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Will this not change the relationship of the track bar to the drag link?
You keep reading about keeping them as even as possable. Not trying to be an A$$. I,m about to go
to 4/5 inches + OTK and am VERY picky about the road handing. I have just driven XJ with more lift then that and was inpressed with there stable and very predictable handing. Others I have driven were not so well manerd.

I went 3.5 inches and just got a new bar. I realy didnt like the idea of drilling. But it can be done.

I figured about 3/4 inch over for a 3.5" lift. IF anyone insisted on drilling thats about as far as I would ever want to go.

When you think about what all is in the hands of the little drilled out hole, an adjustable bar looks better by the second.

badron said:

Depends on the lift. Disconnect the bar, settle suspension so your axle is straight, see where the new hole needs to be by swinging the bar back into place.
==================================================================
Will this not change the relationship of the track bar to the drag link?
You keep reading about keeping them as even as possable. Not trying to be an A$$. I,m about to go
to 4/5 inches and am VERY picky about the road handing. I have driven XJ with more lift that and was inpressed with there stable and very predictable handing.

Click to expand...

Fixn2xlr8 said:

I went 3.5 inches and just got a new bar. I realy didnt like the idea of drilling. But it can be done.

I figured about 3/4 inch over for a 3.5" lift. IF anyone insisted on drilling thats about as far as I would ever want to go.

When you think about what all is in the hands of the little drilled out hole, an adjustable bar looks better by the second.

Click to expand...

I totally disagree... if it gets reinforced with 3/16 or thicker plate steel you can go as far out as you want to go and not have to worry about strength at all

I am with the moving the hole folks. We all used to do it this way, and it was very reliable.

I have run 5.5" of lift with a stock track bar. The limiting factor is bracing on the top of the track bar mount. You cut that back a bit, and you are good to go. Since you are moving the hole inboard, you should reinforce the outer part of the bracket, then drill the new hole. There was an article years back on Cherokee America that covered the RC/JC-Whitney 3" lift, and he had a chart for how far to move the hole. Though, in practice, I have found that removing the lower mount, and 'finding the natural center by swinging the steering wheel back and forth a bit' method to be reliable. Double check the result by standing back and seeing if the axle looks centered. You will probably be only looking at a 1/8" with 3" of lift. I didn't even bother with my last lift (3").

The thing I like about using the stock track bar is it's durability, and availability of parts.
Darn near every parts store has access to a stock XJ track bar, but few have access to XYZ's ball or heim end.

drilling a new hole is just as strong as the factory hole. i see no issue with it. its a damn hole in the same thickness of steel. just dont drill it too close to the edge of the bracket or old hole and its fine

ktm racer 419 said:

drilling a new hole is just as strong as the factory hole. i see no issue with it. its a damn hole in the same thickness of steel. just dont drill it too close to the edge of the bracket or old hole and its fine

Click to expand...

plus you bring the hole upward a little bit, that helps out as well