1998 sport cranks but no start

I have a 1998 xj sport with a 4.0, aw4, Dana 30, chrysler 8.25

(JUST PURCHASED 2 WEEKS AGO)

Wife was driving the cherokee, it stalled, all gaugues dropped to zero, no power (gas pedal went to floor), pulled over, shut cherokee off then it wouldn't start back up again.

We replaced the cap & rotor, rotor was badly worn on one side so we replaced the magnetic pickup in the distributor along with the cap and rotor. The plugs were also recently changed. Disconnected the battery then reconnected the battery.

Started the jeep, gauges worked, idled for about 10 minutes, everything seemed fine. Went to pull out of the driveway and the same thing happened. Gauges dropped to zero, it died

Next day looking on this site for an answer, came up with crank positioning sensor/ CPK replaced that,
pulled out of the driveway, same thing happened. gauges dropped to zero, it died.

Turning the ignition to on now there is no gauge response, but it is getting fuel. But no spark

We checked all the fuses in the entire rig, fusable links, checked condition of all the relays, looked at all the grounds, all seemed clean and making good contact.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Are you running any CEL codes? I'd be willing to bet you have a CCD Bus failure issue.

Would that be picked up by a Can OBD 2 code reader?
Even with none of the gauges functioning?

However the oil pressure gauge goes to zero when the key is in the on position. But when cranking the oil pressure never goes off zero. And the Odometer/tripometer has never stopped working.

Also both times it started there was no check engine light (mil)

The symptoms point to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS or CKP) on the bell housing. Inspect the wires to the CPS, make sure the connectors are clean and firmly connected. Look for any chafed or melted insulation and for any pinched or damaged wires. Don't focus too closely on the sensor, because it needs to transmit its signal to the computer also. Also inspect the wires to both the O2 sensors. Check all the fuses inside the Jeep and under the hood.

Be sure and use a good sensors either from the Jeep Dealership or from NAPA, cheap sensors from IdiotZone and Advance Auto have been proving to be faulty right out of the box.

In very rare case, a failed CPS can take out the engine computer (PCM). Replacement of the PCM would be a last resort after you have tested and inspected all the other systems and components.

I had this same issue with my jeep a few months ago and I ended up replacing the CPS on the bell housing, still didn't work. It ended up being the sensor that is bulit into the distributer and the coil wasn't giving enough spark. Here is the link to the thread, it will help you a lot: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1041546

I have already replaced both the cps and the sensor in the distributor. (both were quality, lifetime gurantee parts) I have already checked for 12volts at the coil, and ive already checked every fuse and ground point. so I know the coil is good and all the fuses.

Any other suggestions?

Fuel pressure? Pump may have gone south for the winter. If you have a timing light. put it on and check to make sure you have spark.

thomasn456 said:

I have already checked for 12volts at the coil,?

Click to expand...

Having 12 volts at the coil does not rule out a coil problem

Coils can be tested for both primary/secondary resistances with a meter and a manual with the procedure.

If you have no spark which you said is your current state (you have tested for this right??) and the crank sensor circuit is verified, I would still suspect the ignition coil.

Also try swapping the ASD relay in the PDC under the hood (black box with fuses and relays). The relays are of the same part number so you could swap the ASD relay with say....the e-fan relay.

birchlakeXJ said:

Having 12 volts at the coil does not rule out a coil problem.

Click to expand...

X2 on this statement...........
Mines an 88 but similar....when I had my start no start problem it was my ignition module under the coil.
I think in your case (being a 98) that part is different.
I bought one of those cheap HF inline spark checkers to verify my spark, I did this because I had 12 volts to my coil at all times but no spark sometimes.
My problem ended up being the ignition module, but it could have very well have been the coil. The inline checker helped me zero in on the culprit part as to when it would start or not start.

thomasn456 said:

I have already replaced both the cps and the sensor in the distributor. (both were quality, lifetime gurantee parts) I have already checked for 12volts at the coil, and ive already checked every fuse and ground point. so I know the coil is good and all the fuses.

Any other suggestions?

Click to expand...

Ok, JUNK parts with lifetime guarantees just mean you get to keep changing that part over and over and over and over and over again.

Good luck.

Maybe I should have written - cheap lifetime guarantee parts from IdiotZone and Advance Auto have been proven to be faulty right out of the box.

I buy all my engine sensors from JEEP or NAPA if I am in a hurry.

UPDATE!!!

So now the jeep has been running all week, no problems. Until today now were back at square one. It wont start........ AGAIN

thomasn456 said:

I have already checked for 12volts at the coil, . so I know the coil is good and all the fuses.

Click to expand...

birchlakeXJ said:

Having 12 volts at the coil does not rule out a coil problem

Coils can be tested for both primary/secondary resistances with a meter and a manual with the procedure.

If you have no spark which you said is your current state (you have tested for this right??) and the crank sensor circuit is verified, I would still suspect the ignition coil.

Also try swapping the ASD relay in the PDC under the hood (black box with fuses and relays). The relays are of the same part number so you could swap the ASD relay with say....the e-fan relay.

Click to expand...

o-gauge-steamer said:

If you have a timing light. put it on and check to make sure you have spark.

Click to expand...

B.RAIDER said:

X2 on this statement...........
I bought one of those cheap HF inline spark checkers to verify my spark, I did this because I had 12 volts to my coil at all times but no spark sometimes.
My problem ended up being the ignition module, but it could have very well have been the coil. The inline checker helped me zero in on the culprit part as to when it would start or not start.

Click to expand...

Your coil has been mentioned three times in this thread....You say you have 12 volts at the coil.....but say nothing about spark from it.
Have you verified that you have spark from the coil?
When it will not start, you need to verify this element first, to rule it out as it is very suspect.

B.RAIDER said:

Your coil has been mentioned three times in this thread....You say you have 12 volts at the coil.....but say nothing about spark from it.
Have you verified that you have spark from the coil?
When it will not start, you need to verify this element first, to rule it out as it is very suspect.

Click to expand...

If nothing has changed from his first post then he doesn't have spark.

thomasn456 said:

Turning the ignition to on now there is no gauge response, but it is getting fuel. But no spark

Click to expand...

lawsoncl said:

If nothing has changed from his first post then he doesn't have spark.

Click to expand...

I did see that....I guess I should be asking if he has a good verified spark.
I recall on my 88, the gages went funky when my CPS went out. But the second time, less than two weeks later, it was my ICM. In both incidences I had the "no spark" condition...but had to track down where the missing link was in the ignition system.
So if he has spark "all the time" (and it is verified) the problem lies somewheres else.
I know these electrical issues can be frustrating.

So this whole time it was poor connections within the fuse compartment.(most likely caused by me pressure washing) thank for all the help! :wave1: