• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Disconnecting ABS Brake system

sams88

NAXJA Member #1263
Location
Tri-Cities, WA
Installing a custom rear end I want means that no ABS. I have an ex-forest service 96 XJ with ABS. I have heard from some others that just disconnecting the electrical stuff will not sufficiently disable the abs system as that there is a possible malfunction in the system that could prevent one from being able to apply the brakes as the computer wouldn't allow the brakes to work. This supposedly happened on one of the guy's sister's cherokee. Is this in fact possible, or not. Does the abs hydraulic portion of the system (sitting beside the power booster) have to be physically removed with new hydraulic lines replacing the abs stuff??? I tried a search on this but didn't find any results. Thoughts, comments????? Thank you.
 
On a 96 with ABS you shouldn't have any issues if you leave all the components and just pull the ABS fuse in the engine fuse panel. I have done this on my 98 and had no issues for several years.

Edit: I believe it was early models with Renix motors that had the ABS issue if you just pulled the fuse. I think on these early models you need to pull the solenoid pumps out.
 
On a 96 with ABS you shouldn't have any issues if you leave all the components and just pull the ABS fuse in the engine fuse panel. I have done this on my 98 and had no issues for several years.

Edit: I believe it was early models with Renix motors that had the ABS issue if you just pulled the fuse. I think on these early models you need to pull the solenoid pumps out.
X2. 91 and earlier you have to remove the whole system; 92 and later you can just yank the fuses and relays.
 
On my friend's sister's 91 they had to remove everything. He said she had an issue where it wouldn't let her put on the brakes, so they removed all the ABS stuff from the vehicle. I just texted him and he said it was a 91. And that is what was worrying me about it as far as my XJ.

However he says it is still better to remove it all on the 92 and up also.

So what is the difference between the "early" and "late" years that you say you can just remove fuses and relays?
 
91 and down use a crappy Bendix ABS system that has no hydraulic booster and instead relies on a pressure reservoir and an electric hydraulic pump to keep system pressure up so you can brake. Removing the fuses and relays disables the pump, and leaves you with whatever pressure is still in the reservoir... after it runs out, the brakes stop working! :shocked:

92 and up use a true vac booster and a reservoir+small hydro pump in tandem, the reservoir and pump are only used when the ABS subsystem decides the brakes should be pulsed at a higher pressure than you are applying with the pedal. So yanking the fuses and relays disables the pump and the solenoids that activate the ABS system, leaving you with brake lines that essentially just feed through a big fancy block of aluminum.
 
91 and down use a crappy Bendix ABS system that has no hydraulic booster and instead relies on a pressure reservoir and an electric hydraulic pump to keep system pressure up so you can brake. Removing the fuses and relays disables the pump, and leaves you with whatever pressure is still in the reservoir... after it runs out, the brakes stop working! :shocked:


depending on which fuses maybe. but that is not a guarantee. i have had my ABS fuse pulled from under my dash and my brakes work fine, have for years. pump still makes noise and everything. but yes the BEST, and probably RIGHT way is to swap it all over to a traditional boster/MC setup
 
depending on which fuses maybe. but that is not a guarantee. i have had my ABS fuse pulled from under my dash and my brakes work fine, have for years. pump still makes noise and everything. but yes the BEST, and probably RIGHT way is to swap it all over to a traditional boster/MC setup
Play Russian Roulette with yourself, your vehicle, your passengers, and anyone on the road in front of you all you want... I refuse to recommend to anyone else that they do something quite so unsafe.
 
A possible alternative is already on this forum. I switched from a Dana 35 to a Dana 44 and kept the factory ABS system working on my 1999 Cherokee. I could not be happier with the results. I have the strength of my Dana 44 and I still have a fully functional factory ABS system. Using the thread fyrfyt1717 wrote as a guide I moved the ABS tone rings and ABS sensors over to my Dana 44. It works great with no ABS lights and no pump cycling. It did require I tweak the ABS sensors and mounts until correct but it works great now. Now I do not worry about my wife controlling the XJ in a panic stop in bad weather.

Here is the thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=998638

Just a thought...........
 
depending on which fuses maybe. but that is not a guarantee. i have had my ABS fuse pulled from under my dash and my brakes work fine, have for years. pump still makes noise and everything. but yes the BEST, and probably RIGHT way is to swap it all over to a traditional boster/MC setup

If the fuse is pulled, then how come the pump still makes noise???? Seems as the purpose of the fused line is to probide power to the pump???????
 
Play Russian Roulette with yourself, your vehicle, your passengers, and anyone on the road in front of you all you want... I refuse to recommend to anyone else that they do something quite so unsafe.

Just a comment on your comment.......... Under the original design of the system, it had to enter into the design and safety issues and considerations that the ABS system would not work for one reason or another, like a pump failure or lack of power to the pump, so in that case the brakes would still have to function correctly or else the vehicle manufacturer would be liable for accidents, etc. Bottom thought here is that is most likely the reason that the original Bendix system was replaced with the upgraded one perchance?????

As for taking a system back to the non-ABS configuration, that was still an option from the manufacturer so that wouldn't be playing "russian roulette" other than back into the old argument as to whether the non-ABS or the ABS system is preferable or safer. Reality is that both systems have benefits and drawbacks depending on the specific braking instance in question. Granted for the majority of normal town and highway driving the ABS system is preferable. However when wheeling offroad there are situations where the non-ABS is preferable.
 
A possible alternative is already on this forum. I switched from a Dana 35 to a Dana 44 and kept the factory ABS system working on my 1999 Cherokee. I could not be happier with the results. I have the strength of my Dana 44 and I still have a fully functional factory ABS system. Using the thread fyrfyt1717 wrote as a guide I moved the ABS tone rings and ABS sensors over to my Dana 44. It works great with no ABS lights and no pump cycling. It did require I tweak the ABS sensors and mounts until correct but it works great now. Now I do not worry about my wife controlling the XJ in a panic stop in bad weather.

Here is the thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=998638

Just a thought...........

Thanks for that URL, it was an interesting read! :) And that is definitely a consideration.
 
If the fuse is pulled, then how come the pump still makes noise???? Seems as the purpose of the fused line is to probide power to the pump???????

He didn't pull all the fuses... part of the system is still active. As for the unsafe status of the bendix abs system, they didn't count on the pump failing as much as it did. There was an extended warranty replacement for the abs system due to these problems, and yeah it did nothing for those who had, uh, "issues" from it failing when needed most.
 
On my friend's sister's 91 they had to remove everything. He said she had an issue where it wouldn't let her put on the brakes, so they removed all the ABS stuff from the vehicle. I just texted him and he said it was a 91. And that is what was worrying me about it as far as my XJ.

However he says it is still better to remove it all on the 92 and up also.

So what is the difference between the "early" and "late" years that you say you can just remove fuses and relays?
This is the Bendix ABS system on 91 and older vehicles. (pump and accumulator not pictured, but are located on passenger side of engine bay)
DSC_0568.jpg


It is necessary to remove the entire system on a '91 and older because the system does not use a vacuum assisted booster, but an electronic pump, an accumulator, and a modulator. Pulling the fuse/relay for this will disable the system because the system uses the electric pump to create pressure to apply the brakes. No power to pump, and no signal to the modulator will leave you with no fluid pressure, and manual brakes that barely work. I know this from experience, as I had to remove and replace my ABS unit in my '91. The PO had replaced the entire system from the dealer 2 years prior to me purchasing it, and it still failed.

This is a dual diaphragm booster and ABS unit from a '99, (should be same as '96)
DSC_0169.jpg


It is not necessary to remove the entire ABS unit on a jeep without the Bendix ABS unit, since it is a separate module from the diaphragm booster. The booster (the black circular canister on the firewall, which is operated by your foot and vacuum) is what creates the necessary pressure to pump the fluid through the lines. This pressure then passes through the ABS module, which will sit dormant, and allow the pressure to pass through the system to the brakes. The module's dormant and un-powered state is all lines open, and will not restrict pressure to any lines unless a sensor tells it to. Therefore, it is not necessary to remove the entire system, removing just the fuse and relay will allow the brakes to function correctly, without ABS. I know this from experience, not just something I read online.



I have heard from some others that just disconnecting the electrical stuff will not sufficiently disable the abs system as that there is a possible malfunction in the system that could prevent one from being able to apply the brakes as the computer wouldn't allow the brakes to work.
The ABS system is a stand alone module. It does not go through the computer, in fact none of the brake system in a Cherokee goes through the computer. To apply the brakes, you put your foot on the pedal, which attaches to the booster via a rod, which uses the vacuum from the engine to push the rod in the master cylinder, which pushes fluid through the lines. The ABS module takes power from the PDC through its own wire harness (which is integrated into the big corrugated looms in the engine compartment), and has the two front sensors connect in the engine compartment. It then has a separate interior harness that connects the 2 rear sensors, as well as a gravity sensor under the rear seat, and that is it. I actually have the entire ABS unit and wiring separated from my old '99 to put in my '91, since it is a DD and I prefer ABS.



depending on which fuses maybe. but that is not a guarantee. i have had my ABS fuse pulled from under my dash and my brakes work fine, have for years. pump still makes noise and everything. but yes the BEST, and probably RIGHT way is to swap it all over to a traditional boster/MC setup
As we told you in a previous thread, you did not disable your system.
Don't say that it is not a guarantee when you in fact did not do anything to your system. The fuses/relays to the ABS system are under the hood in the PDC, there is not an ABS fuse under the dash (Fuse layout here). You even verified that it is working by saying that your pump still makes noise. Obviously its not disabled.
 
Last edited:
If the fuse is pulled, then how come the pump still makes noise???? Seems as the purpose of the fused line is to probide power to the pump???????

there are multiple fuses i believe. but i know for a FACT i can lock up my brakes AND hear the pump working when i depress the pedal in certain instances.


As we told you in a previous thread, you did not disable your system.
Don't say that it is not a guarantee when you in fact did not do anything to your system. The fuses/relays to the ABS system are under the hood in the PDC, there is not an ABS fuse under the dash (Fuse layout here). You even verified that it is working by saying that your pump still makes noise. Obviously its not disabled.

there is a fuse under the dash labeled ABS, ill even show you a picture. i pulled it, check antilock light came on. brakes still worked but without the anitlock aspect. maybe it only disabled the sensors idk. but like i said, the ABS does not work, but my brakes still do.


again i say that this is not recommended to be a permanent solution. i also plan on swapping to a WJ brake booster/MC. all im saying is that it works for me and im giving my own personal experience, as i have said many times.
 
Last edited:
there is a fuse under the dash labeled ABS, ill even show you a picture. i pulled it, check antilock light came on. brakes still worked but without the anitlock aspect. maybe it only disabled the sensors idk. but like i said, the ABS does not work, but my brakes still do.

This may be an unfeasible suggestion given how little I know of the Bendix ABS system on the early XJs, but: if you haven't already, also pull the ABS relay.

On my 2000, there are two fuses (ABS Motor and ABS Solenoid, IIRC) that you can pull to disable the ABS system. With them out, it is fully-disabled - but until you remove the relay, the ABS Light on the dash will be lit. What I'm wondering is if removing the relay on the Bendix system not only puts the light out, but also completely stops the sound of the pump cycling. I understand that these are very different ABS systems, but figure it's worth a shot.

I'd also be interested to know if your XJ had the ABS recall work done to it or not - it's possible that depending on how that was performed, the pump may continue to cycle (or not) if the relay is still in place.

(And for anyone wondering, I've been driving with the Chrysler ABS disabled for close to four years now, and have no adverse effects from doing so.)
 
there are multiple fuses i believe. but i know for a FACT i can lock up my brakes AND hear the pump working when i depress the pedal in certain instances.




there is a fuse under the dash labeled ABS, ill even show you a picture. i pulled it, check antilock light came on. brakes still worked but without the anitlock aspect. maybe it only disabled the sensors idk. but like i said, the ABS does not work, but my brakes still do.


again i say that this is not recommended to be a permanent solution. i also plan on swapping to a WJ brake booster/MC. all im saying is that it works for me and im giving my own personal experience, as i have said many times.
yes, you have not fully disabled it.

You continue to tell people to do this even though it's widely known to be unreliable and dangerous, and you admit you don't fully understand what you have done to it. Kindly stop. This is like telling people it's fine to check if a revolver is empty by pointing it at your foot and pulling the trigger because hey, you did it and it didn't shoot you... that time.

It is a fairly simple mod to do it right and end up with safe brakes, and the parts are cheap.

Cliff notes: SPOBI
 
I lost my ABS when I went D44 and HP30. Pulled the fuses. No lights, no problems, stops just like before. Actually better with the larger D44 rear brakes. I owned and drove many vehicles before there was ABS. Want to talk about unsafe, how about putting 37 inch tires on a XJ designed for 29, brakes, steering, suspension and all.
 
What year is your xj?

That's a rather critical piece of information in this case. If it's a 92 or later, :thumbup: happy trails!
 
It's an 01. Had ABS, now don't. If the D44 and HP30 had it I would have connected it. I really can't feel any difference. I suppose the tires will now lock up and not pulse cycle. In states with annual inspections this might be a problem.
 
Back
Top