Tom Woods driveshaft questions (calling all owners)

Hey guys,

I'm finding the process of piecing together a driveshaft/SYE combo from Tom Woods is more perplexing than I anticipated... I have a few questions before I call them:

1. What's the difference between the "Super Duty" and Advanced Adapters SYE conversions? Sounds dumb, but I'm going to assume the "Super Duty" one is stronger.
2. I'm completely confused by the XC and XB slip joint/yoke options... I assume the S-spline and X-spline options are for slip joints within the shaft itself, whereas the XC and XB are slip yokes that slide onto the stock output shaft? If the latter is the case, why would an SYE bundle be an option?
3. Would the X-spline joint be worthwhile when running ~3.5" of lift? with rear leaf springs?

Bonus comes in on Friday, and I need to have the trigger finger ready to place some orders...

Well, patience pays off... Just spoke to a rep at Tom Woods and got answers:

1. The Super Duty SYE has a better warranty and an output flange that can be used with larger U-joints (plus a different retainer casting). Otherwise, nearly identical to the AA kit. Both use speedometer gears and stock sensor.
2. The XB and XC options are mutations of the X-spline. XB utilizes a dust boot, XC uses a greaseable seal.
3. Yes. Stronger than S-spline.

Noting for future reference.

All correct. Had the AA SYE, and X-XC woody shaft for 2 years and never looked back.

Replaced my RE Hack n Tap and front xj driveshaft with AA SYE, 4* shims, and XC shaft as well and so far so good. I see more mud than I'd like so I went with all greasable (including the Double Cardan center ball). I had mild vibes with the hack n tap, and I was destroying u joints thanks to the crappy pinion angle. This setup works great, the only "vibes" I have now are from the Mud Terrains. Running a 3.5" lift with this, and the shaft is good for at least another inch.

Edit: Make sure to get some Lock ring pliers (not snap ring). This will make your life soooo much easier when you install the SYE. We took the TC out to install it, which isnt too hard to do if you have never done it. Some of the bolts were hard to get to thanks to lack of tools, but I would imagine its easier to install the sye with the TC out of the jeep.

Rock on, thanks for the tips. I see close to no mud (never been a fan of mudding, especially when wheeling alone and without a winch), so I'll be rockin' the XB design (booted).

Question about your rear setup though - I was really crossing my fingers that this solution would eliminate the need to shim the rear axle. I'm running an RE 3.5" kit... I take it shimming will likely be necessary?

You will probably still need to shim. You won't really know how much until you get it in. But if your pinion is not pointed straight at the output on the tcase, then it is a shim you will need.

Yep, id get some shims if I were you. I went with 4* shims and that got it pretty close (personally i think an extra degee or half would have been better). I just got what they had. Most people with the 3.5" RE go with 4* based on my research. You have to take into account aftermarket shackles too because longer shackles will point your pinion up too. I am running 3.5" Rubicon express springs/stock shackle also.

Shims from tom woods are $25, so its not a huge loss if it turns out you dont need them. I didnt bother shopping around because i figured i might as well get it all from one spot.

Gotcha. Thanks for the tips. I might actually go with RE shims (since they include longer 3/8" center pins) once I get the measurements done. Time to buy an angle finder...

Check out the angle finder at Harbor Freight. It is better quality than many of the tools HF sells. I found mine on sale for four bucks when I installed my TW driveshaft and shims. I am running the 4.5" superflex kit (actual 5.5") and needed 6* shims. TW recommends pointing the pinion slightly below the TC joint, because the angle will raise when the vehicle accelerates, due to axle wrap.

anthrax323 said:

Gotcha. Thanks for the tips. I might actually go with RE shims (since they include longer 3/8" center pins) once I get the measurements done. Time to buy an angle finder...

Click to expand...

Tom Woods' shims also include longer center pins that replace RE ones just fine.