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Upgrade of '89 ABS to '96 Dual booster

bjlinma

NAXJA Member #1265
Location
Haverhill, MA
I began resurecting my '89 Limited a few weeks back.

Last weekend I thought all I had left was to fix the reverse lights (NSS) and put on inspectable tires.

Then the power brakes went dead.

The motor for the Renix ABS had died. I know I can have Jeep replace it under the Lifetime warenty but I decided to upgrade to a '96 Master Cylinder and Booster.

I found many useful links here on NAXJA plus this good writeup:

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm



Something I didn't find were pic's showing the Renix ABS unit so here are some.

A side by side of the two. The Renix system has no vacuum booster. It does have a large motor on the passenger side of the engine bay that I haven't pictured. I may take pic's of it after I complete the swap and have time to pull the rest of the system.
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Here's a picture of the brake peddle. I drilled the new hole on the right. The brake rod did not line up with the original hole in my case. This may be due to the fact that mine was an ABS system, not the Single diaphram system.
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Here's a good picture of the original brake rod and switch attached to the brake peddle looking straight up.
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Here's the original rod.
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Here's a picture of the new rod unmodified.
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The new rod after mods.
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The new Dual system fit tight but great. I still have to get the new lines made up and bleed the brakes but I am very happy with how well it has gone so far.

I'll finish over the long weekend coming up and post more pics and info.
 
Sorry I didn't update last week. Sick 4 year old.

It stops good now but I think I'll re-bleed the rear brakes because it's still a little spongy. I know the front are good because I had help. I did the back solo.

I used the stock brake light switch. It did not work initially. I had taken too much off the peddle rod creating the flat spot. I tried shimming it with some flat stock I had around. A piece of 22 guage flat stock worked best. I cut it to the width of the switch contact and a little longer at each end then bent the ends over to make it part of the switch.

The hardest part of this mod is making the double flairs and bleeding the brakes.

I ended up borrowing a hand held hydrolic flairing tool from a friend. It worked very well. He said it was 300+ dollars. It's nice to have the right tools, and the right friends. :)

One other thing was that at first I put in the whole unit, (booster, master cylinder and prop. valve). This didn't leave enough room to properly bend and flare the lines. So I took out the master cylinder and Prop. valve but left the booster in. Then I bent the lines and made flares by repeatedly test fitting. Lastly, I put it back but didn't tighten the master cylinder down until I had the lines snugged down. This gave me some wiggle room.

I used my stock lines. Since the old ABS system had the lines going in on the drivers side and the new one had the hook ups toward the passenger side I had plenty of length. The new booster came with the fittings still in it and the lines cut so I cut off the old fittings which were wrong, slipped on the correct ones and flared them. I didn't have to use any of the line or fittings I bought.

Great mod over all. If someone has a specific question, let me know before I forget it all. Isn't old age fun. :)
 
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