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1999 transfer case "part time" light stays on?

C

cmb2008

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northeast
Gentlemen; Recently noticed that the part time light stays on even when its in 2 wheel drive, I confirmed its in 2hi.

Where is the switch?

I assume the lever handle on the floor/tunnel hits "something" to change the light to partime, full time etc. Or is it all electronic?

Thank you
 
There is a switch on the top of the t case on the drivers side. The factory ones are highly failure prone and I'm betting that could be part of the problem if you know its in 2wd. They are very cheap if I recall. I think I paid 17 bucks for mine. Very easy to change. The other and more probable is the shifter linkage. If its off it won't travel correctly and you will get these shifting issues. There is a write up or link that explains how to do this.. also very easy. I'm assuming you have the np231... if you only have four selections on the t case shifter its the 231. The full time light will never come on with that case as its all part time 4wd.
 
Thanks 99xj!

I think its the 242 trans. I will have to look and get back. I did have the console off so its possible i changed something with the lever. I will take a look.
 
Adjusting the t-case shifter is quick and easy.

Remove the bezel. Pull the shift lever to the 4lo position, place a 3mm shim between the lever and the back of the shiftgate, then hold the lever fully rearward against the shim (use a bungee cord). Crawl under the XJ, on the upper t-case shifter rod is a squarish trunnion with a lockbolt in it. Loosen the lockbolt. Now, move to the shift tab on the t-case where the lower shift rod attaches and move the shift tab so the t-case is fully in 4lo. tighten down the trunnion lockbolt. Remove the bungee, the shim, and replace the bezel--you are done. Procedure is the same for NP242 or NP231.

Note: if you live in a nasty place where things rust, might want to get under there and spray the lockbolt, trunnion, and upper shiftrod a few times before attempting the adjustment.

After saying all that, I agree that the switch is most likely the source of the problem.

Good luck.
 
Joe;

Appreciate the help! Your right, rust will be an issue. Heck I just had to change the front rotor and wheel bearing hub assembly. The rotor was rust/welded to the bearing. After I pulled them from the splines, just for the fun of it, I beat on the rotor with a sledge hammer, never budged from bearing! Fortunately everything else came apart fairly decent. It's all back together with new stuff. The combination of liquid calcium and salt from mid november to to the end of March is tough on equipment.

I won't be able to get to the trans. case for a couple days.

I still have to do a rear brake job with possibly having to put on new brake drums and what ever else might look corroded in there.
 
Ok.

I would get after it with some PB Blaster for a few days ahead of when you are going to work on it.

If you can't get the trunnion to bust loose and slide along the upper rod, then I pop the rod out of the lever and the torque bar tab so you can work on it separate. Soaking really bad rusted parts in white vinegar will help.

Good luck.
 
Is the trunnion block supposed to slide along the rod? The horseshoe shaped part is free, the block/trunnion is solid to shaft.

Mine is solid to the rod even after soaking for a day in solvent. I may have to try the vinegar trick
 
Yes, the trunnion block IS the adjuster--loosen the lock bolt and in the non-rusty parts of the country it will slide along the rod.

Good luck.
 
Joe thanks! I was double checking, it was frozen on so bad it looked solid to the shaft.

Heated it red hot and finally freed it up. Cleaned it up and installed and adjusted as you suggested. Light is still on.

Question? When in 2wd and trans. in Park with engine shut off can I reach under and turn the front drive shaft by hand and not turn front wheels?

I am not familiar with the 4wheel drive-2wheel drive-part time in a jeep.
 
Yeah, sounds right.

Pull the switch on the transfer case, easy to get to. You might be able to free it up--little ball/spring plunger arrangement on the end:

getimage.php
 
Sounds good!

I pulled one electric plug, seems like it had 3 terminals? The connections looked fine.

I will find the one you suggest and remove it and take a look at it.

Thanks again!
 
Not off the top of my head.

You said your switch had three wires? NP242?

Anyway, going outside to crawl under mine and see what size it is, but mines a NP231.
 
Yeah, 242. Its not real easy to get to, its on top drivers side. A crows foot type wrench or short homemade deal. A socket wont work because of being so close to frame.

Thanks again!
 
Joe;

Fixed the light problem. Thanks to your recommendation.

Since I coundn't get a wrench on the switch I rapped on it a few times with a wrench. Figured I had nothing to lose. The part time light is off now.

I did double check by jacking it up and going thru all the transfer case selections to make sure it was in what it indicated. It is!

Thanks
 
Glad you got it!
 
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