171k on her, 98' 4.0 ax-15
Motor oil:10w-30 Super tec synthetic
Tranny fluid: Same as above
T-case fluid
lain jane ATF, whatever the spec asks for
Rear ends:75w-90 Super tec semi-synthetic
Coolant: Regular green stuff either from prestone or peak
Brake fluid: Any brand dot 4 fluid
Now for my take....
Motor oil: dosent matter the brand, do a change between 3 and 4k for regular and before 7500 miles on synthetic. Use the right weight 10w-30 or 5w30 if its cold enough to need that added ease of cold start.
Oil filter I run Purolator pure 1 filter. Things like the mobil one filters are a rip off they are like $13. Pure 1 in tests filters great, is constructed well, and the price is right. Def don't run a cheap QUALITY oil filter.
Tranny fluid: If i ran an automatic i would run a name brand ATF and change it as per FSM. Since i run the ax-15 i run a synthetic 10w-30. I HIGHLY recommend the 10w-30 synthetic. I ran regular 10w-30 in it and the synthetic makes a VERY big difference in shift quality and cold weather use. so much so if i didn't experience it, i wouldn't have believed it.
T-case fluid: I feel that any old ATF that is up to spec is fine for this, its used as a splash lube not like an automatic tranny as a hydraulic fluid.
Rear ends: I firmly believe in synthetic again for these. Reason being, running the regular gear oils in my rear end i would hear a high pitched bearing noise on the highway when on the gas. I think this is the pinion bearing starting to go out. switched to synthetic, (same fluid level too, i checked) and the noise is much much less noticeable to the point where you can't really hear it at all. Again very surprising, this is the only vehicle i've ever had that i actually noticed notable changes between using synthetic and regular oils.
Coolant: Change it bi yearly or so and stick w/ the traditional green kind and you can't go wrong. I feel you need to do a full flush with hose water, back flush blah blah blah... then dump all that, fill w/ pure distilled, run that, dump that, then add the straight coolant needed, and top off with distilled. I am a firm believer of flushing and using only distilled water.
Brake fluid: This is an area where FRESHNESS has a huge impact. As time goes on brake fluid absoarbs water from the atmosphere, lowering its boiling point (point where the brakes will turn to mush and not work well if at all) and increases the corrosion within the system. Wether you use no name brand brake fluid or the best wizbang stuff, you are best off changing it every 2 years. This keeps your brake bleeders working :yelclap: and the boiling point of the brake fluid as high as possible. Plus it only costs you about $10, and takes 45min if that, why not?
:dunno:
