Brake Booster Rod Swap?

I'm looking to swap a 1998 XJ Booster into my 89 MJ. The rod on the 98 is about 3/4" longer. I'm done some searching and found http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm but it doesn't say how the rod swap is done. Do you need to pull the booster apart to do this? I'm thinking it might be easier to weld a tab onto the front edge of the brake pedal arm with a hole in the right spot. Any one done either option?

I didn't have to do either when swapping a 96 booster into my 93 - the holes lined up. I know that to swap out the rod requires disassembling the booster and that this is a task that most brake places will not even attempt. While brakes are a safety item and have to be 100% reliable, I'd sooner go for modifying the brake pedal arm to locate a mounting hole in line with the pedal rod - just be sure your welds are very very sound.

It looks like a royal pain to undo the crimps and open up the booster, so I'm also thinking modifying the brake pedal arm is the easiest way to go. I'm pulling out the pedal anyway. I never swapped over the brake pedal after the manual->auto tranny swap and I have a wide pedal to swap in.

You might find it easier to swap a WJ master/booster in. I've done it on 3 renix XJ's, it takes very little time and is super easy.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/index.htm

cal said:

You might find it easier to swap a WJ master/booster in. I've done it on 3 renix XJ's, it takes very little time and is super easy.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/index.htm

Click to expand...

Fully agree...

I was lookin in to a 96 swap in to a 1990. Cal mentioned this and I learned that it was super easy! Not to mention If you do get a WJ booster/master, it is destine to be much newer and cleaner and last longer without needing service..

took me about 2 hours total to do the swap along with the brake line adapter fittings and small inter-connecting brake lines from the master down to the OE hard lines. I removed the prop. valve though.

Now, I stop on 35's better then I did stock.

I usually pay about $55 shipped for a WJ master/booster from www.car-parts.com. I think I've bought 5?

Well I already have the 98 booster, so I think I'm going to make it work by moding the brake pedal arm. I just need it to stop raining long enough.

I put an M/C and booster out of a 99 Classic into my 89 Limited. I redrilled the pedal rod. Spent more time trying to get the brake light adjusted than the install. Ended up having to put JB weld to shim up the brake switch after I ground too much off the booster rod. Brakes are wonderful after getting rid of the ABS.