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soda blasting an axle

snail

snail

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Jersey
Ideally id like to sandblast my new-to-me D44 axle that im building up, but theres no one really close to me that does that work. However there is a sodablasting company very close. Anyone have any yay or nay experience with sodablasting an axle?

ive heard that sodablasting isn't very effective on rust, but im open to give it a try

my axle was hit with a light coat of rattlecan black by a previous owner and was definately just sprayed right over the rusty surface. in other words id like to re-coat the axle right since ill be investing a decent amount of time and money into it.

any limitations as to what can be applied after the sodablasting? i.e can you still powder coat or primer/rattlecan?
 
Some basic info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodablasting

I would check with your local powdercoat shop and get their take on things.

EDIT: even here in the sticks we have mobile sand blasters--check your yellow pages.
 
blubullett said:
If you have a air compressor you can sandblast.
Click to expand...

It better be a really big one!Glassbead if you can,sandblasting isnt a good idea.
 
I used a local shop to soda blast my WJ knuckles prior to the swap. Came out clean and only cost $20.
 
I just had one sandblasted and while it effectively removed paint and rust, it also leaves abrasive material inside every nook and cranny of the axle. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned inside before installing the gears and stuff.
 
soda blasting gets abrasive everywhere. It also kills the yard where you do it. Looks nice and works very well though. We soda blasted the aluminum bits during my engine build with a shop compressor and a HF sand blasting gun. Got a 5lb bag of soda from Sam's club for like $10. We laid a tarp to catch the media to reuse, that was a waste of time. I was wearing 4 layers of clothing, it was real cold outside, and it still ended up on my skin.
 
What about dry ice blasting? Might be worth checking into and see if you can rent the equipment or someone near you can do it. It uses dry ice instead of glass, sand, anything else which completely evaporates and leaves no residue or anything behind.
 
jeeperjohn said:
I just had one sandblasted and while it effectively removed paint and rust, it also leaves abrasive material inside every nook and cranny of the axle. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned inside before installing the gears and stuff.
Click to expand...
You need "EVERY" internal opening sealed up,you will "NEVER" get all of it out(cleaned) otherwise,found that one out about 40yrs ago!
 
RCP Phx said:
It better be a really big one!Glassbead if you can,sandblasting isnt a good idea.
Click to expand...


I bought a little sandblast bucket that you fill with sand and hook air up to at harborfreight for sometrhing like 20 bucks. I then hooked it to an aircompressor that is only slightly bigger then one for a nailgun, and sandblasted pontoons on a 50 foot houseboat. Sure, it was a pain refilling the bucket every 5 min. but it worked great. Wear a resporator and safety glasses and it is a peice of cake.
 
jeeperjohn said:
I just had one sandblasted and while it effectively removed paint and rust, it also leaves abrasive material inside every nook and cranny of the axle. It needs to be thoroughly cleaned inside before installing the gears and stuff.
Click to expand...

Hmm this may be an issue then because the axle is already all set up with new gears, locker, and seals.

DIY sandblasting does seem to be another great reason to invest in a decent shop compressor though
 
If the cover is on it and everything, I would just pull the outer knuckles and shafts, wad up some newspaper and put it in the tube, then tape over it really well. Do the same for the area around the pinion seal. Then just be careful with where you concentrate the spray and you would be fine.
 
Also make sure you seal off the axle tube vent.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
If the cover is on it and everything, I would just pull the outer knuckles and shafts, wad up some newspaper and put it in the tube, then tape over it really well. Do the same for the area around the pinion seal. Then just be careful with where you concentrate the spray and you would be fine.
Click to expand...
X2 you should be able to do it this way.
 
I took a stripped down nasty greasy D30, a stripped down but painted D44, a pair of WJ knuckles that had so much rust on them I debated about tossing them, a pair of ZJ disk backing plates and the dust shields for both to a soda blaster. Cost all of $50 bucks and they are clean enough to eat off of. Best $50 bucks I've spent on my rig.

FNF
 
I am getting ready to paint my project D44 and it needed some love before I was going to paint it. I'm in a little better shape because my axle is stripped, but I got mine surprisingly clean using a quality twisted-wire cup wheel on my angle grinder. Took me ~3 hrs (with some breaks) and I had to do some detail work with a cold chisel and a Dremel but it didn't really cost me anything and once I wipe it down with some Xylene it should be good to go. It isn't spotless like a media-blasting job would be, but it will be more than sufficient for a quality paint.
 
ADVNTURR said:
I am getting ready to paint my project D44 and it needed some love before I was going to paint it. I'm in a little better shape because my axle is stripped, but I got mine surprisingly clean using a quality twisted-wire cup wheel on my angle grinder. Took me ~3 hrs (with some breaks) and I had to do some detail work with a cold chisel and a Dremel but it didn't really cost me anything and once I wipe it down with some Xylene it should be good to go. It isn't spotless like a media-blasting job would be, but it will be more than sufficient for a quality paint.
Click to expand...
I suggest priming it with Rustoleum self etching primer or an equivalent. That primer will better protect areas you couldn't reach with a wire brush against rust.
 
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