engine continues to run with key off

Last night I tried to shut off my 89 XJ 4 liter but it continued to run (even after cycling the key a few times and removing it). I immediately thought it must be the ignition switch and yanked the coil wire off the distributor and disconeccted the battery. Today I've removed the ignition switch and just for an experiment I reconnected the battery and with the switch totally removed the fuel pump kicked on and relays under the hood clicked. Is it appropriate for this to happen without the switch installed or is this a sign that my problem is something else? At $8 I'm tempted to just go ahead and replace the switch while I have the steering collumn taken down.
BTW this is my daily driver and I have to work tomorrow so thanks in advance.:repair:

B Latch relay is bad, replace it.

Where is this located? My worthless Chilton/Haynes isn't much help. Is this the same as the "power latch relay", second from front above the coil.

si senor-- B+ latch is the same one

Well, I didn't go get new a new relay, but I swapped relays(labeled the same) next to it and no change. Unless I'm messing with the wrong relays or all my relays went bad at the same time I guess that's not it. Any suggestions before taking it to a mechanic which is my next step?

Fehron said:

Well, I didn't go get new a new relay, but I swapped relays(labeled the same) next to it and no change. Unless I'm messing with the wrong relays or all my relays went bad at the same time I guess that's not it. Any suggestions before taking it to a mechanic which is my next step?

Click to expand...

Check the ignition switch, not the key cylinder, but the electric switch that is on the steering column. If it has come loose and is moving around the remote rod from the key cylinder may not be getting it turned off.

NOTE: the B Latch relay controls 12 volts to the ICM that powers the coil, that is why it is the "usual suspect" in a run-on condition.

joe_peters said:

Check the ignition switch, not the key cylinder, but the electric switch that is on the steering column. If it has come loose and is moving around the remote rod from the key cylinder may not be getting it turned off.

NOTE: the B Latch relay controls 12 volts to the ICM that powers the coil, that is why it is the "usual suspect" in a run-on condition.

Click to expand...

Joe, thanks for your help, I removed the switch, unplugged it and, reconnected the battery and the fuel pump primed and relays clicked. So, just to be on the safe side I replaced the switch with a new one and put my steering wheel back where it belongs.
As for these relays, the "B latch relay" you speak of, is this one of the 4 relays mounted in a row above the starter solenoid, coil, and ICM? If so which one is the "B latch relay"? My service manual shows a "latch relay" in the wiring diagram but doesn't show physicaly where it is and it doesn't look to be associated with the ignition unless it's through the ECM.
Is this the one you're talking about and where is it?
I found a diagramat this link but it's labeled differently than my manual. Is it the green one in the diagram at this link?
http://autorepair.about.com/library/graphics//42276757-b.gif

There is some discussion on which is which, with different diagrams in different manuals.

One is a/c, one is fuel pump, one is oxygen heater, the other is B Latch. Hook up a test light to the ICM, three wire connector, third wire from the front of the vehicle. That is the 12 volt supply for the coil from the B Latch relay. With the engine running just pull the relays until the test light goes out.

I replaced the relay and for a day or two nothing changed, then it began shutting off properly(or altleast killing the engine). But the power still randomly comes back on so I continue to disconnect the battery. I may try to adjust the ignition switch, it has slotted mounts. So, maybe its just right on the spot where it sort of off but close enough to be on that it will kick on when I open or shut a door.

Check the connector to the ignition switch, if somewhat melted you may have to cut and replace with insulated spade connectors, or grab a replacement from the salvage yard.

Good luck.