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Got a question about recharging a/c

T

Trail Ready

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cerritos ca
I did a search and there was about 20 pages so I decided to just post another question.The a/c needs to be charged so on my way home from work I stopped off and grabbed a can of r-134a.When I popped the hood to chrage it I noticed on the lable that said r-12.So I guess now I have to take this can back and get the r-12 right?If so,whats the psi thw gauge should read for my 94' sport thanks
 
Take it to a shop. Even if you convert it to R-134, the R-12 by law has to be recovered by a shop with proper equipment.

John Q. Public can't walk into a parts store and buy R-12, either, so that option is out.
 
Given what R12 is now going for, it might be cheaper to evacuate the system (do what JJacobs said!,) fix your leak and convert over to an R134a system.

R12 hasn't been available over the counter (except for licensed mechanics) for quite a few years.
 
Yeah... converting the system is no party either. Gotta put in a new dryer and fittings and whatnot to do it right. After reading up on it I decided that I have windows for a reason and will be converting my compressor into an OBA setup.
 
kastein said:
Yeah... converting the system is no party either. Gotta put in a new dryer and fittings and whatnot to do it right. After reading up on it I decided that I have windows for a reason and will be converting my compressor into an OBA setup.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the whole conversion but putting in a new dryer is a few minute job.
 
By Federal law, you either need to be EPA Section 609 Certified to purchase R-12 or certify that you are purchasing R-12 solely for resale to a Certified tech. On eBay, few bother to verify reselling status so you can sign an affidavit stating it's for resale and most will ship anyway.

R-12 is rudely expensive compared to R-134a. If you plan to keep it for a while, I'd suggest dropping the $$ to do a proper conversion.

BTW: I'm Sec 609 certified.
 
Isn't it something like they've been reducing the amount of R12 that can be sold every year to squeeze the old systems out of existence via price?

This is one place where I support that kind of tactic, R-12 really is pretty nasty stuff CFC-wise.

As for replacing the dryer being easy... huh, I looked at it and it looked difficult. I'll have to see how corroded my fittings are and find out how much a retrofit dryer would cost.
 
kastein said:
Isn't it something like they've been reducing the amount of R12 that can be sold every year to squeeze the old systems out of existence via price?

This is one place where I support that kind of tactic, R-12 really is pretty nasty stuff CFC-wise.

As for replacing the dryer being easy... huh, I looked at it and it looked difficult. I'll have to see how corroded my fittings are and find out how much a retrofit dryer would cost.
Click to expand...

I'm just basing it off replacing the dryer on my r134 system, didn't mean to sound like I was calling anyone out. The dryer is just held in place with a strap secured with a bolt. The quick disconnect fitting comes off and the other line is a single bolt holding it on.

I'm sure a total conversion isn't quick and easy but since you specifically mentioned the dryer...
 
Ok,I just called a reputable a/c shop and asked for a quote for a r-12 to r-134a conversion and he told me it would be better to keep the old r-12 system.He said it was better that the r-134a.Is this true?He wanted me to bring it in so he can take a look at it.What do you guys think?Is this true?He says he has the r-12 to charge it.I am planning on going as soon as I hear from you guys.
 
diesel guy said:
Ok,I just called a reputable a/c shop and asked for a quote for a r-12 to r-134a conversion and he told me it would be better to keep the old r-12 system.He said it was better that the r-134a.Is this true?He wanted me to bring it in so he can take a look at it.What do you guys think?Is this true?He says he has the r-12 to charge it.I am planning on going as soon as I hear from you guys.
Click to expand...

I just went through this. The mechanic swore staying with the old refrigerant was the best idea. They charged me $90 to charge it and another $60 or so to replace a bad valve located by the fire wall. He threw me the figure of $500 to get it converted to R134. If it starts leaking again I'll look into converting it myself so I could buy the coolant and recharge it myself but I don't look forward to doing that.
 
R-12 does work better than R-134.
 
I should have added to my earlier post, it depends on why you're low. If you have a leak that needs repairing prior to recharging, the extra cost to retrofit may be minimal depending on the source of the leak. A minor leak that just needs "topping off" may be best addressed with R-12. As noted above, R-12 is a more efficient refrigerant than R-134a.

That said, I had my compressor self-destruct on my R-12 charged '88. When I replaced the compressor, I also replaced all of the o-rings, drier, and condenser so I was R-134a "ready". In the end I went with R-12 since I was able to buy it and I got a good deal. Once fully cooled, my center outlet blows at about 40F on a 85F day.
 
R12 works better but as stated you technically need a license to buy and install the stuff. You can get it on ebay if you swear that it is for resale only. You also need to get a charging adapter, since the modern harnesses for R134a are different.

It's not hard to convert a working system to R134a, and really just depends on how far you want to go with it. The hard part is that R12 and R134a are different base chemicals and need different oils, and the difficulty/price depends on how much work you want to go through to get that out. At a minimum you need to evacuate the old R12 refrigerant under vacuum, replace the O-rings (and the accumulator if you have one), replace the lost oil with Ester, and recharge with R134a--that's a weekend job and costs less than $200 for most cars. A modest conversion will also drain and flush the hoses and the condenser and evaporator (they tend to retain oil) so you get to pay for that labor as well. A full conversion will replace most hard components and switch to PAG oil (this is what new systems use from the start), but will cost a couple of grand.
 
this thread is depressing me. The only system that doesn't work on my XJ is the A/C system. You can see little white bubbles in the inspection glass above a certain A/C component (not sure what its called), but the compressor never clicks on, nor does it blow cold.

I've been told, it might be as simple as recharging the system, but that one must just wait and see what the mechanic finds.

-Brian
 
The sight glass is on top of the drier. Bubbles typically indicate a low charge but it's not conclusive. You need to check the low and high side pressures using a manifold gauge.
 
if your vehicle is pre 95, it has r 12. those gauge fittings and gauges can be purchased at any refrigeration supply house(if they will sell to you) harbour freight sells the gauges with shutoffs and correct fittings for 134. Or just connect the gauge hoses (without the 134 shutoffs) directly to the vehicle fittings for r12. Cost is about 52.00 shipped. also they can be used for both refrigerants.
as far as pressures its hard to ballpark it will vary depending on ambient conditions
low side can be from 20 -45 psi hi side from 125 -200psi all depends. not really a DIY
job with no knowledge. Do somemore reading and googleing that may help
 
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