Dorman trans cooler line disconect fix your leaks

Had trouble finding new disconnects for the AW4 cooler line at the tranny. The local pats guy had a glazed look when I told him what I used when I wrenched for a living. Looked them up on line and got the part # and they even had them in stock.:confused1 Dorman 800-714 Cost me about $12 each.

These will solve the problem of cooler line leak at the trans.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=800-714

2001-87 Cherokee, 1992-87 Comanche, 1993 Grand Cherokee, 1990-87 Wagoneer; 3/8" OD Tube x 14mm-1.5

Detailed Applications






Type:Transmission Line ConnectorMake:Chrysler/JeepTube Inlet Size:
Thread Size:
Brand:Dorman - OE Solutions



Application Notes:
Please select Detailed Applications
for Application Note information.

Yup. I've been recommending these since I started using them. I have them in both my MJ and my XJ - I'd rather pay 8 bucks for a new fitting than screw around with the darn quick disconnect tool under 1/4" of grime, and my fittings were rusted beyond recognition anyways.

BTW, you can get them for about 6 bucks if you check amazon or rockauto.

If you need lines too, pick up 624-300, 624-301, and 624-334 (also from Dorman.)

Right now, even without a 5% discount code, you can pick up all the parts to replace the entire transmission cooler line circuit (except the cooler(s)) for $73 before shipping on rockauto. They give out 5% discount codes like they are going out of style so you should be able to bring that down to $69 easily.

Head to bring a new thread to life but have a quick question

Here is the Napa part for the connectors:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=BK_7304978_0241723526&An=599001+101999+50038+2038004

Which is what I"m looking for to hopefully prevent any more leaking.

But Dorman has the part on their site as this:

http://www.dormanproducts.com/mobile/p-28973-800-714.aspx

Which looks no different than the stock part.

Rock Auto has the napa looking one with the same part number as what the Dorman link shows although they look nothing alike?

Any ideas?

Umm....They look a lot alike to me. The only real difference I see in the two pictures, besides the angle they were taken at, is the NAPA one looks like it has a red plug in the quick connect fitting end so as not to damage the white quick disconnect.

That's the same part from different angles.

They're still doing good on both my 91 and my 96. The lines got munched on my 96 where they go under the passenger side engine mount, it's my fault and Chrysler's fault (for putting the lines there) not Dorman's though. I have stock bumpstops still and got a little too rambunctious on a rock garden while wheeling, my passenger side upper control arm mount hammered the tranny lines into the edge of the oil pan till they punctured. I'm fixing it by cutting the lines about even with the back of the engine and using a 3/8" flare to NPT adapter and an NPT to 3/8" hose barb adapter and a bunch of 3/8" oil cooler hose to route the lines across the back of the motor, over the brake booster, and along the driver inner fender. I'll hopefully remember to post up a how-to thread after I finish it.

The only downside to this routing is that leaks have more of a chance of hitting the exhaust manifold, but the factory routing does the same thing. In fact the way my lines got punctured by the UCA, the stream of fluid was hitting my exhaust and catching fire. My rig would have burnt to the ground if the people watching me make a fool of myself hadn't told me there was liquid fire pouring out from under my jeep.

Hmm so how is this any better that original? Also I thought I saw a style where you use a disconnect tool and no plastic clips. Thats what the Napa one looked like to me.

It's an OEM replacement, don't think it's any better other than being new instead of well used with a lot of miles on it.

If you want better, get M14x1.50 thread adapters from Earl's (I think they sell them on Summit Racing, GrimmJeeper did a thread on this recently) and roll your own hose and steel line assembly. Stock style quick disconnects suck, and not much will make them better.

Alright I had been told from someone they got some from Napa that required a disconnect tool where there was no use of plastic clips.

Last question is it better to leave the plastic clip in the fitting and push the line into it or put it on the line first?

When everything involved is new (or you cleaned the lines carefully - I suggest hosing them down with brakleen, scrubbing any grit and sludge off, hosing them down again, then coating with transmission fluid to keep from tearing the o-rings up) I just push the lines into the fittings. Make sure they latch in properly - you should feel the ridge on the line "click" into the plastic snap fitting. If you don't, they'll pop out as soon as pressure hits them, and you'll spend a lot of time cleaning tranny fluid off the body and exhaust.

I am feeling kind of dense so I gotta ask. How do these work?

Does the new fitting thread onto the existing hose fitting? Do you pry out the existing plastic clip from the original fitting?

Remove the line from the original fitting... unscrew original fitting... screw new fitting in and push line back in after cleaning and lubing.

All you need is a quick disconnect tool and a 7/8" wrench. If you are careful (have a fire extinguisher within reach) you can use a blowtorch to heat the old fitting and melt the plastic clip so you can just pull the line straight out. Mine were so corroded and full of road grime I couldn't get a QD tool to do anything, so I did this. When I replaced the lines as well, I just cut the old lines with a pair of lineman's pliers and unscrewed the fittings with a 7/8" socket and a ratchet.

It's really pretty easy once you get under there and start working on it.

kastein said:

Remove the line from the original fitting... unscrew original fitting... screw new fitting in and push line back in after cleaning and lubing.

All you need is a quick disconnect tool and a 7/8" wrench. If you are careful (have a fire extinguisher within reach) you can use a blowtorch to heat the old fitting and melt the plastic clip so you can just pull the line straight out. Mine were so corroded and full of road grime I couldn't get a QD tool to do anything, so I did this. When I replaced the lines as well, I just cut the old lines with a pair of lineman's pliers and unscrewed the fittings with a 7/8" socket and a ratchet.

It's really pretty easy once you get under there and start working on it.

Click to expand...

Ah, so it's the fitting that is attached to the transmission. I for some reason thought it was for the fitting that goes to the radiator.

bringing this back from the dead -_- The doorman upper cooler line on rock auto shows that it's not the one with a threaded end for the cooler side. Is this true? I'm about to buy both lines along with the cooler line connectors for the transmission side.