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tcase shifter issues

Take a look at this before decide on the Novak kit.

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

I did this mod, and it works great. If you have a NP242, you may have to lengthen the t-case shift tab and lower end of the throw at the hand lever.
 
that looks easy so i need to extend the stock shift lever and get a s10 tcase lever and make up a linkage. do you have exact measurements to the centers of the holes?
 
I purchased the novak shifter and I can vouch for it's quality and novaks excellent customer service, however, if I knew about the linkage mod posted above I would have done it and spent the $$ I saved on something else that I couldn't fab up myself.

That being said the novak shifter is top quality in every way, highly adjustable and very stout in construction. I didn't have a heat source hot enough to bend the shift rod so I had to cut wedges out of the rod so I could make the bend then weld the seam, it was only two bends but to make the bends you either need mapp gas, a grinder and welder or take it to a shop and have them bend if for another expence.

If you can, go the DIY route

my .02

good luck!
 
that looks easy so i need to extend the stock shift lever and get a s10 tcase lever and make up a linkage. do you have exact measurements to the centers of the holes?

Do you have a 231 or 242? The mod is written up for a 231, I have a 242. I had to lengthen both lower shift lever and t-case tab by about 2.5". That includes a 45 degree joggle on the lower shift lever (pointing aft) because it needed to push the rod a little further and that kept the rod parallel to the ground. It was really kind of a trial and error PITA, but I saved myself $150 or whatever the heck Novak was charging. Other then lengthening my lever/tab, I did the mod just like the write-up. My rod is just over 6", IIRC. If you're serious and want exact measurements I can take some over the weekend. PM me to remind me.

Doug
 
7th pic down shows a tape measure beside the newly drilled lever arm, looks like 2.25" from centerline of pivot shaft to centerline of new hole.
 
7th pic down shows a tape measure beside the newly drilled lever arm, looks like 2.25" from centerline of pivot shaft to centerline of new hole.

And if the TJ arm is too long and you have to weld up and move the hole, why not just modify your stock XJ lever arm? Seems like less work to me.
 
I just built a similar setup a couple weeks ao. Extended the stock lever and built my own tab for the TC. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures. Probably won't be climbing back under until the snow melts around here.
 
And if the TJ arm is too long and you have to weld up and move the hole, why not just modify your stock XJ lever arm? Seems like less work to me.

Because drilling a round hole is a lot easier than cutting a rectangular one!
biggrin.gif

Billy
 
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