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need a shopping list.....regearing.

O

outlander

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus,Ohio
Going to re-gear for the first time.D-30 and C-8.25....
Need to figure out what tools and supplies are needed for a smooth install.
What do I need besides gears and install kits when changing gears on the above axles?
 
Press,bearing puller,in/lb torque wrench,micrometer/caliper,dial indicator,1/2" torque wrench,set-up bearings,gear marking compound,a spanner adj tool(8.25" only) and a ton of time/patience!
 
If you've never done gears before I highly recommend you have them professionally done. If you are highly technically inclined then you can probably get them done right. You will need the gears and install kits and axle seals (not included in some install kits), the tools are as mentioned above plus a tool for holding the yoke while you torque the pinion nut (I used to use a gigantic pipe wrench but a proper tool is much better), a seal puller, and a strong magnet to put on the inside of the diff cover when you are done. Keep making the necessary adjustments until you get a perfect pattern, the time you spend now will pay off in the longevity and quietness of your gears.
 
re-gearing is one of those things that I will NEVER do myself.

engine swap, engine rebuild, tcase gears, lift kits, cooling system, braking system, power braking system, snorkel install, winch/compressor/light installs - yup, yup

diff. gears? no freakin' way.
 
John - glad I'm not the only one doing the "giant pipe wrench" method... I've got a 4' long piece of 2" iron pipe and a pipe wrench that must weigh 15 pounds at least. I've only used it to disassemble differentials so far but when I do my d30 I will be using it... why is the real tool better? Doesn't tear up/gouge the yoke? More convenient?
 
I'm looking at doing the same when I come back home next Feb. with some money saved up from deployment. I heard 4.88 is the best way to go for running 35's. I was looking at Just Diffs the other night and they said they now have 4.88 gears for the 8.25 but I could not find it but from there pricing it's looking about $150 to $250 for each diff. Also done a little looking into lockers, I know I want them, just don't know what to get.
 
kastein said:
John - glad I'm not the only one doing the "giant pipe wrench" method... I've got a 4' long piece of 2" iron pipe and a pipe wrench that must weigh 15 pounds at least. I've only used it to disassemble differentials so far but when I do my d30 I will be using it... why is the real tool better? Doesn't tear up/gouge the yoke? More convenient?
Click to expand...
The "correct tool" is a piece of flat steel with holes matching the u-bolt holes or strap holes in the yoke. It has a large hole in the center for the socket that fits the pinion nut. It also has a tab with a 1/2" drive socket welded to it for a huge breaker bar. It holds the yoke firmly and gives you the ability to apply enough torque to remove or torque the pinion nut.
 
Ah. I just give it a little heat (disassembly only), throw the pipe wrench on it, brace it against something with the pipe, and grab the pinion nut with a breaker bar/torque wrench and another cheater bar. Makes it a one-arm job.
 
i am doing the same set up only 4:56. The two best places i have found are rustys and northridge 4x4. both places sell the combo deal which includes master install kit. For the Dana 30 you will need a LOW RATIO carrier to be able to install the gears rustys sells for 70 bucks. the total price for the combo and low ratio at rustys is 578.95 with shipping, Those are Superior gears. North Ridge has a combo for 529.99 free shipping and this is not including the low ratio carrier. This includes the Overhaul kits. Those are Yukon Gears. Me personally are leaning towards the Rustys combo. seem better and rustys has great CS. As for installing, i am removing the front axle and since my 8.25 hasn't been installed i am taking it down to my dad to learn how too this.Let me know if i can help anymore.
 
1990cherokeee said:
Me personally are leaning towards the Rustys combo. seem better and rustys has great CS.
Click to expand...

I was just at the shop I go to yesterday for parts and advise. They told me to stay away Rustys AKA Crustys. Tho I did just put a rustys heavy duty tie rod. Seems solid, alot better then stock and I like it better then others I found. Don't know about there gears tho. Just saying.
 
jeeperjohn said:
The "correct tool" is a piece of flat steel with holes matching the u-bolt holes or strap holes in the yoke. It has a large hole in the center for the socket that fits the pinion nut. It also has a tab with a 1/2" drive socket welded to it for a huge breaker bar. It holds the yoke firmly and gives you the ability to apply enough torque to remove or torque the pinion nut.
Click to expand...

Actually,one thats easier to use is just some 1" square tube welded into a "box" formation so it fits around the yoke,that way you dont have to keep bolting/un-bolting the thing.(its also the handle to my JD2 bender)
P1060035.jpg
 
Think everyone set you up with the right tools. Your probably going to need to grind down some ring gear teeth on the 8.25 to get the carrier pin in/out while the carrier and ring gear are installed back in the housing.
 
89jeepxjw said:
Think everyone set you up with the right tools. Your probably going to need to grind down some ring gear teeth on the 8.25 to get the carrier pin in/out while the carrier and ring gear are installed back in the housing.
Click to expand...
This is true. check the position of the ring gear and rotate it until you will only have to grind one tooth on the ring gear then grind it just until the center pin clears the ring gear. Make sure you use some fine sandpaper to smooth out the ground down tooth, you don't want any sharp edges to be stress risers on the gear.
 
jeeperjohn said:
This is true. check the position of the ring gear and rotate it until you will only have to grind one tooth on the ring gear then grind it just until the center pin clears the ring gear. Make sure you use some fine sandpaper to smooth out the ground down tooth, you don't want any sharp edges to be stress risers on the gear.
Click to expand...

I actually prefer to index the gear so that the crosshaft falls between 2 teeth.It means less material removed from any one tooth!
 
Around here about 150-200 per axle(labor only).
 
outlander said:
How much would I pay if I had someone else do it?Was thinking it would be cheaper to do myself.....but after looking at the tools list IDK.
Click to expand...
When I do them I charge $200 for a removed axle and $250 for an installed axle. This includes replacing all bearings and seals. I won't install gears with out new bearings and seals.
 
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