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Problem replacing motor mounts

Vince

NAXJA Forum User
Location
England
I've got a problem replacing the motor mounts on my '93. I am using urethane mounts on this one and have had to clearance the bushings to fit the block mounts which I expected to have to do. My problem is when the new mount is bolted to the block mount I can't get the engine to move forward the 3/4" necessary to get the motor mount to drop into the frame hanger. I am working on the left hand mount first as my manifold has been removed for replacement. The right hand mount doesn't look that good but hasn't broken yet. My engine is sitting rearward 3/4", any ideas how I can pull it forward? No obvious places to use a lever.
 
I haven't looked to check if this is possible but I'm thinking of using a sturdy wooden fence post in front of spring hangers with a jack and another post applying some force to the back of the transfercase. Probably need to undo the transmission mount first. Hmm... may just undo the transmisson mount and have another go levering from underneath.
 
OR just ditch the Polyurethane vibration-and-noise-conducting-pain-in-the-ass-to-get-in-pieces-of-crap, and get some MORE rubber mounts. Youll thank me later.
 
I'm going to put the M.O.R.E. mounts on my '01 next year. My wife is insisting I sell the '93 before the '01 returns home from it's trip to the USA. Whoever, buys my old rig is unlikely to use it as a daily drive.
 
I just replaced mine and had the same problem. My solution was to use the factory bottle jack on the cross member and just jack the motor foward!:laugh3: You are going to have to to loosen the cross member but it made it easy.
That screw type factory jack always stays in the jeep, it works wonders!!
 
Thanks. I'm going to try that today. Just had another problem pop up with the engine mount on the right hand side. It's a RHD XJ and Jeep decided to put a different design engine mount on that side to clear the steering shaft. My right hand mount has a smaller foot. The usual protruding tab is missing on this one. It doesn't use a stud and a bolt but has two welded studs closer together underneath. I think I can modify the other urethane mount by cutting off the tab and drilling a new hole in the foot for a bolt.
 
I cut a 12" length of 2"x2" timber and used it with the stock screw jack against the cross member. The 2"x2" block was pushed into a bell housing bolt and a 10" length of 2"x1" was used as a brace for the block against the lip of the transmission and the floor. The jack made it easy to shift the engine forward and the motor mount just dropped into the hole perfectly.
 
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