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any ideas on a leaking tranny?

Could also be a rusted tube. You can get the whole set of hardware you need to replace all the lines from rockauto for less than 70 dollars, so as long as it didn't run dry and blow the tranny I would say go for it.

You want:
1x Dorman 624-300
1x Dorman 624-301
1x Dorman 624-334
2x Dorman 800-714
a couple quarts (I usually just get a 5 quart jug) of Dex/Merc ATF

It may not look like you need to replace the 800-714s (the hex shaped quick disconnect fittings on the side of the tranny) but believe me, with 19 years of road dirt in the quickdisconnects, you will be doing yourself a really inexpensive favor.

Tools required:
* 8mm nutdriver (for the clamps that hold the lines down along the engine block)
* 7/8 box wrench (for tightening new quickdisconnect adapters on tranny and holding the large nut on the upper radiator connector while unscrewing the flare nut)
* 3/4 or 5/8 box wrench, I forget. Whatever fits on a flare nut for a 3/8 line
* 7/8 socket, preferably deep but you can get away with a standard
* 14mm socket (for draining tranny pan, you'll want to)
* 8mm socket (for removing the fan shroud and e-fan from the radiator)
* ratchet extension bar, 6" or so
* ratchet
* pocket butane torch - to get the quickdisconnect off the radiator - believe me, it's easier this way
* quickdisconnect tool if you want to do things "right"
* pair of linemans pliers or 9+ inch dikes

Drain the pan, use the linemans pliers or dikes to sever the old lines flush with the quickdisconnect adapters, use the socket+ratchet to unscrew the old adapters, screw the new ones in. Disconnect the lines from the engine block, save the clips and screws. Remove the fan shroud, then the e-fan. Remove the flare nut on the upper radiator transmission cooler fitting - use the 7/8 box wrench and be very careful you don't let the 7/8 nut turn or you can twist off the line inside the radiator instead of unscrewing the flare nut. Now use the butane torch to heat up the outside of the lower quickdisconnect fitting till the plastic clip insert melts and twist/pull the old line off*. Put the new lines on, put the e-fan and fan shroud back in (have fun with the lower tabs!), fill 'er up and do the normal stuff...

* if you like doing things The Right Way you will use the quickdisconnect tool here. You will spend 20 minutes cursing, pushing, twisting, and will finally give up and torch it. I did, anyways :jester:
 
If she's standing at the urinal in the men's room it's probably best to just walk away unless a leaking tranny is what you're looking for...
 
Could also be a rusted tube. You can get the whole set of hardware you need to replace all the lines from rockauto for less than 70 dollars, so as long as it didn't run dry and blow the tranny I would say go for it.

You want:
1x Dorman 624-300
1x Dorman 624-301
1x Dorman 624-334
2x Dorman 800-714
a couple quarts (I usually just get a 5 quart jug) of Dex/Merc ATF

It may not look like you need to replace the 800-714s (the hex shaped quick disconnect fittings on the side of the tranny) but believe me, with 19 years of road dirt in the quickdisconnects, you will be doing yourself a really inexpensive favor.

Tools required:
* 8mm nutdriver (for the clamps that hold the lines down along the engine block)
* 7/8 box wrench (for tightening new quickdisconnect adapters on tranny and holding the large nut on the upper radiator connector while unscrewing the flare nut)
* 3/4 or 5/8 box wrench, I forget. Whatever fits on a flare nut for a 3/8 line
* 7/8 socket, preferably deep but you can get away with a standard
* 14mm socket (for draining tranny pan, you'll want to)
* 8mm socket (for removing the fan shroud and e-fan from the radiator)
* ratchet extension bar, 6" or so
* ratchet
* pocket butane torch - to get the quickdisconnect off the radiator - believe me, it's easier this way
* quickdisconnect tool if you want to do things "right"
* pair of linemans pliers or 9+ inch dikes

Drain the pan, use the linemans pliers or dikes to sever the old lines flush with the quickdisconnect adapters, use the socket+ratchet to unscrew the old adapters, screw the new ones in. Disconnect the lines from the engine block, save the clips and screws. Remove the fan shroud, then the e-fan. Remove the flare nut on the upper radiator transmission cooler fitting - use the 7/8 box wrench and be very careful you don't let the 7/8 nut turn or you can twist off the line inside the radiator instead of unscrewing the flare nut. Now use the butane torch to heat up the outside of the lower quickdisconnect fitting till the plastic clip insert melts and twist/pull the old line off*. Put the new lines on, put the e-fan and fan shroud back in (have fun with the lower tabs!), fill 'er up and do the normal stuff...

* if you like doing things The Right Way you will use the quickdisconnect tool here. You will spend 20 minutes cursing, pushing, twisting, and will finally give up and torch it. I did, anyways :jester:

If she's standing at the urinal in the men's room it's probably best to just walk away unless a leaking tranny is what you're looking for...


welp, with kasteins great tech, and goodburbons great tranny joke, i think this thread is a sucess!
 
It could be the front pump seal, not that big of a deal but a bit more work.
 
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