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No Start Distributor Problem

M

[email protected]

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Courtenay BC Canada
Hey guys so I've been having a NO start issue, I found out that I am only getting spark in Calendar #3. So I pulled the cap off the distributor and cranked over the motor and the rotor does not spin. So I'm thinking its either the cam gear or distributor gear. Is it worth pulling it out and fixing it or could there be much more wrong with the motor because I have been cranking it over so much?

Thanks
Matt
 
of course its worth pulling the dizzy.

What are you going to do if you dont pull it out, just junk the jeep???:confused1
 
That would a fair assumption.

Starter turns flexplate/flywheel, which turns the crank, which turns the timing chain, which turns the cam, which turns the dizzy.
 
[email protected] said:
I read a post somewhere that mentioned that there could be some major damage done to the motor. But I guess I'll pull it apart and take a look.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't worry about the bearings from the cranking. They aren't under a particularly large amount of pressure.
 
The 4.0 is a non-interference motor, did the OP specify engine size?
 
Ok, so I found out that I sheered off the pin that stops the Cam gear from spinning without the cam. I have two questions for you guys. How can I get the half of the spring pin out of the cam, and how do I set the Cam Timing.

Matt
 
Does the hole go all the way through? If so, use a punch.

More importantly, why did it shear. Get an oil pump spinner, pull the distributor and try to spin the oil pump. My bet is that it seized and caused the pin to shear, unless the sprocket was loose and constant rattling finally caused it to shear.

If the hole does not go all the way through, the only solution is most likely to drill it out. If you mess up the hole, you will end up buying a new cam and lifters. If you aren't capable of doing this, pull the cam and take it to a machine shop.
 
No, the hole does not go through all the way. When I got the cover off the cam gear bolt was loose so I'm pretty sure thats why it sheered off. You think drilling it is the only way to go... Guess I'll give that a try tomorrow when its light out.

Matt
 
The pin is most likely hardened and will be a bitch to drill. Try a smaller hole and then try to tap threads. If you can do that, you most likely can get it out. Make real sure you don't let any of the shavings to fall in the pan. Good luck.

If it all comes apart cleanly, you most likely need a new sprocket and maybe a timing chain. There are dimples on both sprockets. Align them to where they are pointing directly at each other then put on the chain.
 
Memory isn't serving me all that well on the locator pin, but why not try running a reasonably hardened screw into the end of the roll pin and see if you can get a hold of it that way?

Don't use anything too big or you will spread the roll pin and just tighten it against the sides of the hole. Worth a shot.
 
That roll pin thing is wierd. The 2000 has a keyway in the cam and an integral key in the cam gear. For a roll pin, you could try to get a small tap into the hollow of the roll pin. It seems strange that they would use a roll pin carry the turning load of the cam. At least it should be a solid dowel. Of course, then it would be even harder to get out.
 
joe_peters said:
Memory isn't serving me all that well on the locator pin, but why not try running a reasonably hardened screw into the end of the roll pin and see if you can get a hold of it that way?

Don't use anything too big or you will spread the roll pin and just tighten it against the sides of the hole. Worth a shot.
Click to expand...

I tried doing that already and wouldn't grab. So tomorrow I'm going to try and drill it out slowly and then either keep drilling or tap it and pull it out that way.

Matt
 
So it's looking like the cam has to come out. Would I be able to switch to a cam from a 2000 and get a timing set for a 2000 as well or would it not match with my crank? If I'm going to pull it apart I might as well upgrade it so it's stronger. Is it worth upgrading to an aftermarket cam? I think I read somewere that there was no point in upgradeing cams unless your going to stroke the motor is this correct? Guess its time for me to start searching.

Thanks For the Help Guys...

Matt
 
Sorry to hear that.

Well, unless you are going to upgrade the throttle body--not sure if even available anymore for the pre-91, and the intake, and the head, and the exhaust, I wouldn't bother with changing the cam.

Hell, why don't you try and drill the hole oversize and put in an oversize dowel, then just drill the hole in the cam gear larger? Worth a try before pulling the cam.
 
joe_peters said:
Sorry to hear that.

Well, unless you are going to upgrade the throttle body--not sure if even available anymore for the pre-91, and the intake, and the head, and the exhaust, I wouldn't bother with changing the cam.

Hell, why don't you try and drill the hole oversize and put in an oversize dowel, then just drill the hole in the cam gear larger? Worth a try before pulling the cam.
Click to expand...

Well I have exhaust done to the jeep I also have an intake done. If I end up pulling the cam I'm going to rebuild the head and upgrade it if i go with a aftermarket cam. I would drill the hole oversize, but i have already broken 5 Titanium drill bits just trying to drill out the roll pin. I was however able to tap the roll pin but every time I thread something in to pull from it just strips the threads. I'm out of ideas other then pulling the cam and droping it off at a machine shop or just buying a new cam. What a stupid desighn if you ask me.....

Matt
 
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