wrong tranny?

hey i need some guidance. i just looked under the xj and i have a 30-43le tranny in it. it is a '96 xj with 4 wheel drive, of course, getting ready to do a tranny filter change. now keep in mind this was my girlfriends jeep that i have kind of repossesed., not a bad trade since my girl got my new truck!
any ways she told me that her dad had a toyota tranny put into it so i had to check to do the change. i have done some searches and maybe i am missunderstanding the info but it seems that that tranny is supposed to be i a two wheel drive, not four wheel.
is this right?

any info is helpful because i think i am starting to have tranny problems and trying to figure them out.

thanks guys

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/223977292.html
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46689

hey man.

it seems as though you have a regular AW4 tranny. they were available under some toyotas as i understand. the model number for your particular AW4 is 30-43le. they were available as both 2wd and 4wd

-Tim

rowicki said:

hey i need some guidance. i just looked under the xj and i have a 30-43le tranny in it. it is a '96 xj with 4 wheel drive, of course, getting ready to do a tranny filter change. now keep in mind this was my girlfriends jeep that i have kind of repossesed., not a bad trade since my girl got my new truck!
any ways she told me that her dad had a toyota tranny put into it so i had to check to do the change. i have done some searches and maybe i am missunderstanding the info but it seems that that tranny is supposed to be i a two wheel drive, not four wheel.
is this right?

any info is helpful because i think i am starting to have tranny problems and trying to figure them out.

thanks guys

Click to expand...

The Aisin-Warner AW4 four-speed automatic (technically, three-speed with overdrive) is indeed a Toyota case - found in the Celica, Supra, pickup, and RWD van. I believe Lexus also made use if it - but Lexus is a Toyota marque anyhow.

The "filter" isn't really - it's just a "strainer" that does double duty as a sump pickup. You can just clean it out for reuse, if that's the way you're going. Since you're having trouble, I'd take it out and replace it - but don't throw the old one away. Check it out, then backflush it with carburettor cleaner and keep it on the shelf for next time.

Also, take the time to clean off that magnet that is in the sump pan - you'll see a lot of metal "fuzz" on it from break-in some years ago, so that's normal

I'd also drain the fluid (since it's a drain plug) over something that would catch solid matter that the magnet would not - like clutch friction material (which is bronze.) A fuzzy bit of towel should serve - as should a largish coffee filter in a largish funnel or basket - something to help it hold its shape. You can then examine the filter to see if it catches anything - like bronze bits.

What sort of trouble are you having, anyhow?

5-90

it just seems like it shifting like crap most of the time and the "cluck" when i goes under initial weight is getting pretty bad. its got about 180000 miles on the jeep and supposedly there is a rebuilt '97 engine in it and the tranny that isnt necessarily stock. it is but not on this one from what i am hearin.
just trying to fix all that is wrong so after i buy her her new car i can have me a play toy that i dont have to keep fixing. just build out....ya know what i mean.

the "cluck" when i goes under initial weight is more likely to be the t-case or differential than the transmission, bad U-Joints are also highly likely.

langer1 said:

the "cluck" when i goes under initial weight is more likely to be the t-case or differential than the transmission, bad U-Joints are also highly likely.

Click to expand...

Start with a U-joint inspection. Just to back-check, does it do that "clunk" in both reverse and forward gear?

You can easily check U-joints by lying under the truck, gripping the driveshaft on either side of a U-joint, and trying to twist in opposite directions. There should be NO noticeably "play" in the joint...

It would also be worth checking for freeplay at both the output shaft (which could indicate spline wear or output gear wear) and the axle pinion (which would indicate some R&P wear.) Just grab the driveshaft between the universal joint and the part being tested - grab the axle pinion yoke to check that, and grab the slip yoke to check the transfer case. Spin in both directions once you have hold of the thing.

Universal joints can be changed either with a C-frame press (best) or a largish bench vise and a couple of sockets (acceptable.)

5-90

5-90

thanks man. yes i clunks when i put it both is drive and reverse and also when i am driving when i take my foot off the gas and hit it again.. one time i thought someone hit me from behind it was so bad. and just a thought... if i were to replace the tranny what would be the prime choice. bolt up and longevity are main considerations.

Many AW4 easly go 250k without any problems, again I doubt it a tranny problem.

rowicki said:

thanks man. yes i clunks when i put it both is drive and reverse and also when i am driving when i take my foot off the gas and hit it again.. one time i thought someone hit me from behind it was so bad. and just a thought... if i were to replace the tranny what would be the prime choice. bolt up and longevity are main considerations.

Click to expand...

Check your universal joints - I've run across that problem before, and that's what it was.

There's no need to "upgrade" from the AW4 slushbox - I've got a few, and they're all quite sound. The only one I've managed to wreck wasn't from parts wear or any internal fault - it was because I managed to lose three bellhousing bolts, and the fourth backed out about 1/2". Ended up having the front planetary gearset get angled front-to-back, and I actually had to use a Sawzall to get the transmission apart. This was at 240Kmiles, and upon inspection, everything else was in good shape...

5-90

5-90 said:

Start with a U-joint inspection. Just to back-check, does it do that "clunk" in both reverse and forward gear?

You can easily check U-joints by lying under the truck, gripping the driveshaft on either side of a U-joint, and trying to twist in opposite directions. There should be NO noticeably "play" in the joint...

It would also be worth checking for freeplay at both the output shaft (which could indicate spline wear or output gear wear) and the axle pinion (which would indicate some R&P wear.) Just grab the driveshaft between the universal joint and the part being tested - grab the axle pinion yoke to check that, and grab the slip yoke to check the transfer case. Spin in both directions once you have hold of the thing.

Universal joints can be changed either with a C-frame press (best) or a largish bench vise and a couple of sockets (acceptable.)

5-90

5-90

Click to expand...

X2, my driveshaft would clunk when going into drive and reverse, and my 18 year old rear u-joint was shot.

Also "shifting like crap" usually means you should check the TPS sensor and tranny cable adjustment.