More Clutch Issues

I've got a 90 XJ, 4.0 AX-15 and I changed out the clutch master cyl a couple of months back, then a couple of days ago I blew a hole in the line that runs from the master cyl to the slave cyl.

So I changed the line out, bled out the system and I have a very faint clutch that doesn't work now. If I don't touch the pedal for a couple of minutes it'll feel great on the pedal but won't lemme into gear.

Also when I was bleeding the system out I'd only get a squirt of fluid on the first time when the bleeders open instead of every time...

I was thinking what if I accidentially bent one of the lines on the slave cyl, would that cause my problem?

try replacing the slave cylinder, its only about $45, i've heard the master and slave wear out around the same time...

Try again.

He said he's got a 1990, which means he's got the same setup I've got - AX-15 with internal slave (and I'm getting tired of the damn thing. I've had nothing but trouble with the internal slave...)

The slave cylinder is going to cost more like $100, and requires dropping the transmission to change it...

Check your steel lines just to make sure - a slight kink in on could cause low fluid volume - or slow fluid volume.

Or, you could be having a problem like I'm having now - where the slave just doesn't want to fully extend. I've been driving around in second gear all damn day... Don't suppose anyone has an external slave AX-15 bellhousing lying about, do they?

Anyhow, take a moment to inspect your hydraulics all the way up, and if you have access to a vacuum bleeder, re-bleed with that.

5-90

Can you see the slave cyl if you remove the access panel on the front of the trans or would the clutch/flywheel be in the way?

The slave cylinder/bearing is between the clutch proper and the front of the transmission. You probably won't be able to see it.

Since the bearing is fixed to the front of the transmission by a pin and a "push nut" ring, you probably won't be able to see it unless you punch a hole in the bellhousing... You probably won't be able to see anything useful, even then.

5-90

Ah, I just thought that maybe if I took a look I could see any possible kinks...

If you check from the "access port" for the hydraulic hardlines, you should be able to see most of them - except for the last couple of inches along the face of the transmission case.

However, unless you've been doing something down there, you probably haven't kinked the hardlines inside the bellhousing. I'd start by checking the lines (especially the soft line) from the master cylinder down, and then bleed again using a vacuum bleeder. One thing to check - before you start bleeding, put the hose and adapter on, crack open the bleed nipple, and watch the clear line while someone else presses the clutch pedal. You're looking to make sure you get a nice "pulse" of fluid down there. Sometimes, a soft hydraulic hose can fail and get a "flapper" - a loose inner flap that works like a one-way valve. If it closes the hose entirely, you'll get a VERY hard pedal. If it closes the hose off "mostly," you'll get diminished fluid to the slave, and the hose should visibly bulge as pressure builds up between the inner hose and outer jacket...

5-90

This morning I went out and jiggled the lines a bit where they go into the bellhousing and the clutch started working again but now it's a real low clutch w/very little leeway...

I guess my old line ahd a flapper, it bulged then burst at one point. Is there any place I can get a better line from or is OEM style the only way to go?