the best penetrating oil ever?

[thechief86]

this stuff http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:_lqc19mUcSTLPM:http://www.newequipment.com/media/Product/KB88_632889833693341054_large.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.newequipment.com/media/Product/KB88_632889833693341054_large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.newequipment.com/303/ProductDetail/59032/303-1000/kb_88_ultimate_penetrant.aspx&usg=__zHusa-nRxM_yhcF7SpqLhnnaSBk=&h=250&w=104&sz=6&hl=en&start=1&um=1&tbnid=_lqc19mUcSTLPM:&tbnh=111&tbnw=46&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dkb%2B88%2Bpenetrant%26hl%3Den%26safe% 3Doff%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1) is frickin great. i was trying to remove a power steering pump and hose from a 1970 wagoneer, with 40 years of rust and grimey crap. i got the pump off, but couldn't get the hose off the pump. i tried putting it in a vise, then using every thing from line wrenches to vise grips, to heatin it with a torch, to freezing it with liquid propane, and nothing worked. i took the whole thing to a place here in murfreesboro on samsonite dr, and the guy sprayed this kb88 on there, and after 15-20 seconds, i took the fitting out with my fingers. holy crap, go buy some of this stuff. it's like $10 a can, but worth every penny. gotta love it.

[PacificEd]

I've never heard of that stuff. I use PB Blaster and Deep Creep and they seem to do a good job.

[thechief86]

dude, i've used pb since high school, and this stuff so far beats it hands down. definitely worth trying!

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

PB blaster and ZEP 45 always work for me

[superdave]

Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Tested to be far better than any available oil. Do a Google search for Machinist's Workshop magazine penetrating oil and you will find the same info on dozens of forums citing the magazine article. Which I cannot find online.


Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix........53 pounds


*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*

[Team Willys]

We used to use kroil at the shop, darn good stuff but very expensive! I will have to mix a batch of the home brew and see how it does.

[bigalpha]

We used to use kroil at the shop, darn good stuff but very expensive! I will have to mix a batch of the home brew and see how it does.

Let us know how it does!!

It seems this is a mix that you can't put in a plastic bottle, though.

[thechief86]

you know, this kb88 smells suspiciously like atf and acetone mixed, and it's PINK!
hmmmm.....

[kf_chris]

We use Kroil at the sites here. have no idea how much it costs...but it's decent. for home use i swear by PB. Heard that a mix of turbine oil and hydraulic oil is fantastic too.

[Shorty]

back from the "I'm not dead yet" file.

I absolutely HATE working on rusty/dirty vehicles, so I decided to "prepare" the '91 for any future projects and test this 50/50 mix at the same time. I knew I was gonna be changing axle u-joints and decided to treat one side and leave the other side untreated. If I had to sum up the results in a word, it would be "great-galloping-gobs-of-goatsh*t"-- that stuff worked wonders!!
I got so pissed at the untreated side, that I treated it and moved on to another project 'til the next day.

My application of the mix went like this:
-Berrymans fuel treatment (on hand and primary ingredient was acetone)
-generic power steering fluid (on hand and, well close....)
-use a wire brush and brush it onto/into threads of anything that needs to move.
-leave overnight
-brush a second application and remove nuts/bolts

no breakage, no strippage, no fuss, no muss!!

Never again will I spend for commercial penetrating oils-- this stuff is too good!!

[bigalpha]

I like it when people report back with their findings.

[ChiXJeff]

Guess it's time to stop at Harbor Freight and pick up a couple of cheap pump cans for this stuff.

[Shorty]

couldn't keep quiet-- it's too good. I actually made it a point to buy canning jars and ingredients (even though I'm not out yet) to mix it up and have it here. I'll kick myself if I ever run out and have to use that uther crap again.

[YJ-GENRAL]

sweet! someone tested it... very cool, i think i may have to try it myself now. i wonder if you could mix up a batch and put it in a spray bottle (cleaner bottles) for easy application.

[Shorty]

I like the wire brush, as it cleans the threads at the same time, but if you can find a spray bottle the acetone won't degrade, I'd say goferit.

[Team Willys]

I almost bought the stuff yesterday to make a batch, but I didn't b/c I was running short on money at the time and I didn't have anything to mix it in. So now I know what will work! Cool cool. Will definitely do it now.

[WTF]

Sounds like this brew and this: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_383623_383623

will pay for itself in busted knuckles, and broken tools very quickly

[ChiXJeff]

Time to bring this up from the dead.... with a real world test.....

I ruptured the left front brakeline on my 99 Dodge pickup over the weekend (yes, it was abraded, no, there was no other collateral damage.) Considering that it was the original brakeline to the best of my knowledge, I started hosing down the junction block with the acetone/ATF mixture on Saturday afternoon. I also don't have a good place to work on the Dodge during the winter, but there is a good local shop a couple of miles away who got me in this afternoon after the brakeline came in at the local parts shop.

The results? The flare nuts came loose with 2 fingers, didn't twist the hard lines at all. Pretty darned good for 10+ years old and 274k miles. What broke was the bleeder screw on the caliper I'd put on last spring (I'd completed neglected to give that a shot.)

This stuff has a permanent home in my garage now.

[bigalpha]

Awesome. Looks like this is a pretty good mix and it should be included in everyone's toolbox.

[Shorty]

I'll kick myself if I ever run out and have to use that uther crap again.

I ran out yesterday and immediately went out to get more ingredients-- in the process of pulling my rear bumper and installing a tire carrier from the salvage yard. It's amazing how easily mine came apart (treated) and what a P.I.T.A. the boneyard bumper was to remove-- I treated all the hardware from it last night and it all went back together like it was new!!

once again:

myth confirmed!!

[bigalpha]

Dang, I wouldn't mind scoring a tire carrier.

[kf_chris]

That's awesome. I usually write off the brake connections from the history of every single one stripping or rounding off or tearing. I'll have to mix up a batch of this stuff this summer.

[Starboard M]

What are you guys storing this in? Someone mentioned not being able to keep it in plastic bottles ( I assume because of the acetone).


Are there reusable metal spray cans out there on the cheap?

[mrmikey32]

what level acetone?

[ChiXJeff]

What are you guys storing this in? Someone mentioned not being able to keep it in plastic bottles ( I assume because of the acetone).


Are there reusable metal spray cans out there on the cheap?
I picked up a cheap metal thumb-pump oil can. Been holding it for probably 3 months, works just fine.

[Shorty]

What are you guys storing this in? Someone mentioned not being able to keep it in plastic bottles ( I assume because of the aceton)

glass "canning jar"

it looks like I've got some moonshine fermenting on the shelf-- but this stuffs got to taste a little rough.

[Starboard M]

I picked up a cheap metal thumb-pump oil can. Been holding it for probably 3 months, works just fine.
Where did you get it? Sounds like a Harbor Freight special type of thing.

glass "canning jar"

it looks like I've got some moonshine fermenting on the shelf-- but this stuffs got to taste a little rough.
Thats a good idea, but most of the time I need to squirt the oil onto something and cant really get a brush onto anything.

[garr]

Let us know how it does!!

It seems this is a mix that you can't put in a plastic bottle, though.

I have acetone that came from the store in a plastic bottle!

Where do you guys purchase your acetone from?
Is Nail polish remover Strong enough ?

[ChiXJeff]

My local O'Reilly's carries acetone in quart cans. And I think I paid all of $6 for the thumb-pump can as well there.

[kastein]

I've heard a lot of rumors about this stuff, and I have WD-40, PBBlaster, and Kroil on hand to test... I'll have to give it a try.

PS - Cole-Parmer Chemical Resistance Database shows FFKM, EPDM, Kalrez, Kel-F, Nylon, PEEK, and PTFE as having Excellent resistance to acetone, and LDPE as having Good resistance. CP Lab Safety says "LDPE and HDPE at 20C°-50C° - damage may occur. Not recommended for continuous use." so I think if you just put what you need into a polyethylene spray bottle, use it, then put the rest back into the jar for storage you'll be ok, as long as the pump/cap mechanism on the spray bottle isn't made out of PVC or ABS etc as those turn into sludge when exposed to acetone.

EDIT: garr - Home Depot and most other home improvement stores have it, check the paint prep aisles, it's in blue tins next to the naptha, xylol, turpentine, paint thinner, etc.

[Popeye'sJeep]

KB 88 is...

Solvent Naphtha 25 – 35 %
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 15 – 25 %
Dipropylene Glycol Methyl Ether Acetate 15 – 25 %
Dipropylene Glycol Mono Butyl Ether 5 – 15%
Distillates Petroleum, Hydrotreated Middle 5- 15 %
Carbon Dioxide (aerosol only) 1 – 4 %

[Popeye'sJeep]

I haven't had anything to test it on yet, but I mixed up the acetone/ATF mix in a bottle & after two days the bottle isn't melted or softened or anything else detrimental. Only time will tell if the cap can keep that acetone from evaporating, though. Acetone is hard to keep from "seeking" a way out, which is probably why it's a good penetrant.
For a container, I searched for polyethylene and LDPE bottles and settled on the 1oz squeeze bottles from the ebay seller below. I got some extras- very handy for applying some oil in small amounts in a controlled way.

http://shop.ebay.com/kentara9614/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

http://i.ebayimg.com/09/%21Bj,1LTQ%21mk%7E$%28KGrHqUH-C0Es+GvvtgGBLTgH2ykO%21%7E%7E_12.JPG

[Chad29860]

Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Tested to be far better than any available oil. Do a Google search for Machinist's Workshop magazine penetrating oil and you will find the same info on dozens of forums citing the magazine article. Which I cannot find online.


Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix........53 pounds


*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*

I was fixing to say Kroil is the best but have never tried the ATF-Acetone mix. That study shows that the Kroil is probable the best store bought stuff though.

[Popeye'sJeep]

For the convenience factor of a finished product in a compressed can, I'd have gone for Kroil but haven't had any luck with finding it retail & the few places with it on the Internet want too much for shipping.

If you can find it- get it. I've heard good stuff about it.

[Chad29860]

For the convenience factor of a finished product in a compressed can, I'd have gone for Kroil but haven't had any luck with finding it retail & the few places with it on the Internet want too much for shipping.

If you can find it- get it. I've heard good stuff about it.

I have the luxury of borrowing a can here and there from work.