Rattle Can Advice

OK, so I read THIS excellent thread from PBB, but I still have questions.

Is it necessary to prime the whole rig? My old color and my new color are VERY close (gold to tan) and there are only a few places that are rusted or where the paint is peeling.

What is the proper way to (wet?) sand in between coats? How long do I let the paint dry before (wet?) sanding it? What grit sand paper should I use? Do I use an electric/pneumatic sander to wet sand? Do I use a block?

I've decided that I'm not going to clear coat; is there anything I need to do different on the final coat of paint?

Thanks a bunch!
Billy

Yes, you should wet sand in between coats. I would use p400 or p600, 600 being better but it will take longer. Use a block. Always.

DanMan2k06 said:

Yes, you should wet sand in between coats. I would use p400 or p600, 600 being better but it will take longer. Use a block. Always.

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Thanks Dan. I was trying to find tips on YouTube and found a guy using a carpenter's pencil for a block... is that about the size I would want to use? Any advice on how long to let the paint dry before wet sanding?

Thanks,
Billy

Hahaha carpenter's pencil what a joke. Use an acutal sanding block. They are super cheap and you can get them at just about any hardware store. Or order from tcpglobal.com. Their K-block series are absolutely outstanding. Very easy to use.

I would let the paint dry at least a couple hours before sanding. Depends on how thick you are applying the coats. Heavy coats may even need to sit overnight. If you're masking anything, be SURE to let the paint dry before applying any tape. Otherwise it will peel the paint right off the panel when you go to remove it.

I wough actually consider rolling on your finish. A lot of people have been getting great results usig a 1:1 paint/thinner mix and doing lots of super, super light coat. Then sanding them smooth every 4 or 5 coats. After about 8-10 coats you're done and can fnish sand. Looks really nice for the price.

Do your finger and sanity a favor, get one of these:
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.co...andle-fits-most-spray-cans-p-5682.html?ref=42
It will help your control as well.

Cnickgo said:

Do your finger and sanity a favor, get one of these:
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.co...andle-fits-most-spray-cans-p-5682.html?ref=42
It will help your control as well.

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I tried to use one of those for my last rattle can job and I didn't like it. With the weight of the can being distributed farther from my hand, I felt like I had a lot less control. Bummer too because it really does save your finger!
Thanks though,
Billy

they also collect overspray and then spatter

Do your finger and sanity a favor, get one of these:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/LPH400LV.aspx
It will help your control as well.

I'd assume that the time between applying the coat and sanding it down would depend on the type of paint used. Just read the can.

You can find everything you need at your local auto parts store -- wet/dry sand paper, sanding blocks, scuff pads(work great if you just need to scuff up the old finish before applying the new).
When wet sanding, use warm water with a little dish washing liquid in it. It keeps the sand paper from clogging up. Use a rag to keep the area your sanding wet.
I would recommend 400 grit sanding paper. You don't have to use a lot of pressure when you're sanding. Take your time & let the sand paper do the work.

Shadetree61 said:

You can find everything you need at your local auto parts store -- wet/dry sand paper, sanding blocks, scuff pads(work great if you just need to scuff up the old finish before applying the new).
When wet sanding, use warm water with a little dish washing liquid in it. It keeps the sand paper from clogging up. Use a rag to keep the area your sanding wet.
I would recommend 400 grit sanding paper. You don't have to use a lot of pressure when you're sanding. Take your time & let the sand paper do the work.

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Awesome. I did this on the hatch yesterday, pretty much like you describe (I'll try the dish soap next time) and it turned out pretty well. I think it needs one more coat to get rid of some blotchiness. Do I wet sand the final coat with 400 or with something else or not at all? I'm not going to clear coat it.

Thanks for the advice,
Billy

If the final coat is metallic, absolutely not. If it's solid, you can wetsand after. But only if you have enough coating that you're not going to rub through to your original surface. Which is hard to build when you're using an aerosol lacquer.

If you do a final wetsand, start with 1500, then 2000, then some kind of rubbing compound, then a nice coat of wax.

With rattle can, I really wouldn't sweat it. You're wasting effort and time on a finish that will only fade and crack and peel on you down the road, so just enjoy it while it looks nice.

true dat'